Lake Tahoe Roadtrip

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A Tale of Two Shores

Before you visit Tahoe for the first time, it's important to understand the distinction between the North and the South shores. Don't let the "City" in the North Shore's "Tahoe City" fool you; you can drive through it in a couple of minutes. To the contrary, South Lake Tahoe is brimming with high-rise casinos, motels, and minimalls. Where you choose to stay is important because driving from one end of the lake to the other takes an hour or more in summer and can be downright treacherous in the winter.

So which side is for you? If you're here for gambling or entertainment, go south: The selection of casinos is better, with more action and more lodgings, often at better rates. If you seek a relaxing, outdoor retreat, head to the North Shore, which has a better selection of high-quality resorts and vacation rentals. The woodsy West Shore has the most camping spots, and the East Shore, protected from development, has no commercial activity.

Wherever you stay, you'll find no shortage of water and mountain sports. The lake is crowded during the summer and ski seasons, so plan far ahead. It's much easier to get reservations for the spring and fall, and the rates are significantly lower. Numerous vacation homes and condominiums are available to rent; call the visitor-center bureaus or visit the websites listed below under "Visitor Information" for a list of rental agents.

Getting There

It's a 4-hour drive from San Francisco; take I-80 east to Sacramento, then U.S. 50 to the South Shore, or I-80 east to Highway 89 or Highway 267 to the North Shore. Be prepared for snow in the winter. During heavy storms, you won't be permitted to pass the CHP (California Highway Patrol) checkpoints without four-wheel-drive or chains. From Los Angeles, it's a 9-hour drive; take I-5 through the Central Valley to Sacramento, and then follow the directions above.

Reno-Tahoe International Airport (45 min. to North Shore, 90 min. to South Shore; www.renoairport.com) offers regular service by 10 major airlines, including American (tel. 800/433-7300), Delta (tel. 800/221-1212), and United (tel. 800/241-6522). Rent a car or take a shuttle up to the lake: No Stress Express (tel. 888/4-SHUTTLE; www.nostressexpress.com) serves the North and West shores; Tahoe Casino Express (tel. 800/446-6128; www.southtahoeexpress.com) serves the South Shore (1-day advance reservations recommended). To get to the lake, take U.S. 395 South to Route 431 for the North Shore or U.S. 50 for the South Shore. Although all the roads leading to the lake are scenic, the panorama as you descend into the Lake Tahoe Basin from Route 431 is spectacular. Pull into the overlook and enjoy the view.

Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com) stops in Truckee, 10 miles north of the lake. Public transportation (TART or Truce Trolley) is available from the train depot, or you can take a taxi to the North Shore. Greyhound Bus Lines (tel. 800/229-9424; www.greyhound.com) serves both Truckee and South Lake Tahoe with daily arrivals from San Francisco and Sacramento.

Visitor Information

In Tahoe City, stop by the Visitor Service Center, 245 North Lake Blvd. (tel. 888/434-1262 or 530/583-3494; www.tahoefun.org). In Incline Village, go to the Incline Village/Crystal Bay Visitors Center, 969 Tahoe Blvd. (tel. 800/468-2463 or 775/832-1606; www.gotahoe.com). In South Lake Tahoe, go to the Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority, 1156 Ski Run Blvd. (tel. 800/288-2463 or 530/544-5050; www.virtualtahoe.com), or to the South Lake Tahoe Chamber of Commerce, 3066 Lake Tahoe Blvd. (tel. 530/541-5255; www.tahoeinfo.com). Many other websites offer information about Lake Tahoe, including www.skilaketahoe.com, www.laketahoeconcierge.com, and www.tahoevacationguide.com.