Kayaking Hawaii's Big Island

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Ocean Kayaking -- Imagine sitting at sea level, eye-to-eye with a turtle, a dolphin, even a whale -- it's possible in an oceangoing kayak. Anyone can kayak in calm waters: Just get in, find your balance, and paddle. After a few minutes of instruction and a little practice in a calm area (like the lagoon in front of the King Kamehameha's Kona Beach Hotel), you'll be ready to explore. Beginners can practice their skills in Kailua and Kealakekua bays; intermediates might try paddling from Honokohau Harbor to Kekaha Kai Beach Park; the Hamakua Coast is a challenge for experienced kayakers.

You can rent one- and two-person kayaks (and other ocean toys) from Aloha Kayak (tel. 877/322-1441 or 808/322-2868; www.alohakayak.com) for $20 for a half-day single and $30 double ($25 for a full-day single and $40 for a full-day double). They also have a unique tour from Keauhou Bay and the Captain Cook Monument, with Hawaiian guides showing you sea caves and snorkeling areas full of fish and turtles. The tours are either 4 hours ($65 adults, $33 for children ages 12 and under) or 2 1/2 hours ($50 adults, $25 children 12 and under) and include all equipment, beverages, snorkeling gear, and snacks.

Freshwater Fluming -- Years ago, the best thing to do on a hot summer day was to grab an old inner tube and go "fluming" down the Kohala Sugar Plantation irrigation system. There were only two problems: You had to trespass to get to the elaborate ditch system, and the water was cold. But the opportunity to float past a pristine rainforest, over ravines, and under waterfalls was worth the risk of getting caught (and a numb rear end). You no longer have to worry about either problem. Flumin' da Ditch (tel. 877/449-6922 or 808/889-6922; www.flumindaditch.com) offers legal access to this North Kohala area by way of guided tours in high-tech, double-hulled inflatable kayaks, with knowledgeable guides talking story about the history, culture, and legends of the area. The tour includes snacks. When the operation first started years ago, it was fabulous, but on my last trip I was somewhat disappointed. To ensure a good trip, tell them you want to be in the kayak with the guide (otherwise you will miss out on all the history, culture, and so on). Wear a swimsuit or bring a change of clothing, because the kayaks pass under waterfalls and through water pouring in from the intake systems. The 2 1/2-hour cruises are $99 for adults, $68 for kids 5 to 18. No experience is necessary, but children must be at least 5.