Hiking in Molokai

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Hiking Molokai's Pepeopae Trail

Molokai's most awesome hike is the Pepeopae Trail, which takes you back a few million years. On the cloud-draped trail (actually a boardwalk across the bog), you'll see mosses, sedges, native violets, knee-high ancient ohias, and lichens that evolved in total isolation over eons. Eerie intermittent mists blowing in and out will give you an idea of this island at its creation.

The narrow boardwalk, built by volunteers, protects the bog and keeps you out of the primal ooze. Don't venture off it; you could damage this fragile environment or get lost. The 3-mile round-trip takes about 90 minutes to hike -- but first you have to drive about 20 miles from Kaunakakai, deep into the Molokai Forest Preserve on a four-wheel-drive road. Warning: Don't try this with a regular rental car. Plan a full day for this outing. Better yet, go on a guided nature hike with the Nature Conservancy of Hawaii, which guards this unusual ecosystem. For information, write to the Nature Conservancy at 1116 Smith St., Suite 201, Honolulu, HI 96817. No permit is required for this easy hike. Call ahead (tel. 808/537-4508 or 808/553-5236) to check on the condition of the ungraded, four-wheel-drive, red-dirt road that leads to the trail head and to let people know that you'll be up there.

To get here, take Highway 460 west from Kaunakakai for 3 1/2 miles and turn right before the Maunawainui Bridge onto the unmarked Molokai Forest Reserve Road (sorry, there aren't any road signs). The pavement ends at the cemetery; continue on the dirt road. After about 2 to 2 1/2 miles, you'll see a sign telling you that you are now in the Molokai Forest Reserve. At the Waikolu Lookout and picnic area, which is just over 9 miles on the Molokai Forest Reserve Road, sign in at the box near the entrance. Continue on the road for another 5 miles to a fork in the road with the sign PUU KOLEKOLE pointing to the right side of the fork. Do not turn right; instead, continue straight at the fork, which will lead to the clearly marked trail head. The drive will take about 45 minutes.

Hiking to Kalaupapa

This hike to the site of Molokai's famous leper colony is like going down a switchback staircase with what seems like a million steps. You don't always see the breathtaking view because you're too busy watching your step. It's easier going down (surprise!) -- in about an hour, you'll go 2 1/2 miles, from 2,000 feet to sea level. The trip up sometimes takes twice as long. The trail head starts on the mauka (inland) side of Highway 470, just past the Mule Barn (you can't miss it). Check in here at 7:30am, get a permit, and go before the mule train departs. You must be 16 or older (it's an old state law that kept kids out of the leper colony) and should be in good shape. Wear good hiking boots or sneakers; you won't make it past the first turn in sandals.

A Tip for the Adventurous

If it's action you crave, call Molokai Action Adventures (tel. 808/558-8184). Island guide Walter Naki will take you skin diving, reef trolling, kayaking, hunting, or hiking into Molokai's remote hidden valleys. Hiking tours are $50 per person for 4 hours; the number of participants is limited to no more than four. Not only does Walter know Molokai like the back of his hand, but he also loves being outdoors and talking story with visitors. He'll tell you about the island, the people, the politics, the myths, and anything else you want to know.

Hiking the West End

Molokai's entire West End, some 53,000 acres, is open to hike tours through The Lodge at Molokai Ranch (tel. 888/627-8082 or 808/660-2824; www.molokairanch.com), which offers a range of hikes to fit different abilities. Prices range from $45 for an easy 2- to 3-hour hike to $85 for advanced hikes along the sea cliff coast.

Molokai Outdoors Activities, in the lobby of Hotel Molokai, just outside Kaunakakai (tel. 877/553-4477 or 808/553-4477; www.molokai-outdoors.com), has a range of hikes from a Halawa Cultural hike at $75 to an East End Cultural tour and waterfall hike for $180.