For longtime locals, when we think "Little Italy," Filippi's comes to mind. To get to the dining area, decorated with Chianti bottles and red-checked tablecloths, you walk through a "cash and carry" Italian grocery store and deli strewn with cheeses, pastas, wines, bottles of olive oil, and salamis. You might even end up eating behind shelves of canned olives, but don't feel bad -- this has been a tradition since 1950. The intoxicating smell of pizza wafts into the street; Filippi's has more than 15 varieties (including vegetarian), plus huge portions of spaghetti, lasagna, and other pasta; children's portions are available. On Friday and Saturday night, the lines to get in can look intimidating, but they move quickly. The original of a dozen branches throughout the county, this Filippi's has free parking. Other locations include 962 Garnet Ave. in Pacific Beach (tel. 858/483-6222).