San Diego Neighborhoods

• Print
• E-mail
• Add to My Trips

Back to San DiegoNeighborhoods

Downtown, Gaslamp Quarter & Little Italy

Two decades ago, downtown was the domain of a few high-priced and highfalutin Continental and American restaurants -- and little else. The area was turned on its ear when the new convention center opened, though, and swank spots began moving into the Gaslamp Quarter's restored Victorian buildings in the late 1980s. Today, the Gaslamp positively percolates with its concentration of dining options, at all price levels and showcasing a variety of cuisine.

You can grab breakfast at a quirky stalwart like Cafe 222, 222 Island Ave. (tel. 619/236-9902), or sit down to some gourmet pancakes at Richard Walker's Pancake House, 520 Front St. (tel. 619/231-7777); then have lunch with the artists and musicians at Pokez Mexican Restaurant, 947 E St. (tel. 619/702-7160), where they offer more than 30 vegetarian dishes. Come the evening, you can dine with the party crowd at sexy supper clubs like Stingaree, 454 Sixth Ave. (tel. 619/544-9500), and Confidential, 901 Fourth Ave. (tel. 619/696-8888). International choices include Thai at Rama, 327 Fourth Ave. (tel. 619/501-8424), tapas at Caf? Sevilla, 555 Fourth Ave. (tel. 619/233-5979), and Persian at Bandar, 825 Fourth Ave. (tel. 619/238-0101).

Downtown encompasses many more options beyond the 16 1/2-block Gaslamp Quarter, and hotel restaurants in the area make an especially strong showing. Highlights include the palatial Le Fontainebleau at the Westgate Hotel, 1055 Second Ave. (tel. 619/557-3655); the US Grant's reinvented Grant Grill, 326 Broadway (tel. 619/232-3121); Rice at the W Hotel, 421 B St. (tel. 619/398-3082); and two bayside choices -- Sally's at the Manchester Grand Hyatt, 1 Market Place (tel. 619/358-6740), and Molly's at the Marriott San Diego Hotel & Marina, 333 W. Harbor Dr. (tel. 619/230-8909).

Little Italy is home to various eateries including, of course, fine Italians like Po Pazzo, 1917 India St. (tel. 619/238-1917), and Buon Appetito, 1609 India St. (tel. 619/238-9880). The owners of Buon Appetito also operate a sister property next door, the wine bar Sogno DiVino, 1607 India St. (tel. 619/531-8887).

A word on parking: On evenings when the Padres are playing or when a big convention fills area hotels, you'll compete for parking downtown. Fortunately, pedicabs -- three-wheeled bikes that carry two passengers each -- are easy to hire. But if you take a taxi or the trolley downtown on game nights, you'll find most restaurants easy to get into once the baseball crowd has made its way into the ballpark and the first pitch is thrown.

Hillcrest & Uptown

Hillcrest and the other gentrified uptown neighborhoods to its west and east are jam-packed with great food for any palate (and any wallet). Some are old standbys filled nightly with loyal regulars; others are trendy experiments that might be gone next year. Whether it's ethnic food, French food, health-conscious bistro fare, retro comfort food, specialty cafes and bakeries, or California cuisine, it's often mastered with the innovative panache you'd expect in the most nonconformist part of town.

Hash House a Go Go, 3628 Fifth Ave. (tel. 619/298-4646), occupies a reconverted building with an eclectic pun-filled menu of upscale comfort food. It serves three meals a day, but breakfast is the most popular choice. Whatever meal you're here for, though, you'd better be hungry, because portions are mountainous. Tip: Get one meal and pay $5 for a split order -- you'll probably still leave with leftovers. The Tractor Room, 3687 Fifth Ave. (tel. 619/543-1007; www.thetractorroom.com), bills itself as a "hunting lodge on Fifth," and prominently features game meats like bison, rabbit, venison, and boar.

For many years, Kung Food, 2949 Fifth Ave. (tel. 619/298-7302), was one of San Diego's few vegetarian outposts. It closed for several years, but has reemerged at its old spot near Balboa Park. Another casual spot favored by locals is Saffron Chicken, 3737 India St. (tel. 619/574-7737), serving Thai-style grilled chicken from a low-key storefront space on the west side of Mission Hills. Also note that the popular Whole Foods supermarket, 711 University Ave. (tel. 619/294-2800), has a mouthwatering deli and a robust salad bar -- you can pack for a picnic or eat at the tables up front.

Old Town & Mission Valley

Visitors usually have at least one meal in Old Town, and although this area showcases San Diego at its most touristy, I can't argue with the appeal of dining in California's charming original settlement. Mexican food and bathtub-size margaritas are the big draws, as are mariachi music and colorful decor. For a change of pace, stop by the hip sushi joint Harney Sushi, 3964 Harney St. (tel. 619/295-3272), or pop into Mrs. Burton's Tea Room in Heritage Park (tel. 619/294-4600) for a spot of tea in a Victorian setting, 10am to 4pm.

Old Town is also the gateway to the decidedly less historic Mission Valley. There are plenty of chain eateries, both good and bad. We don't discuss them in depth here, but know that in the very busy Fashion Valley Shopping Center complex, you'll find the Cheesecake Factory, California Pizza Kitchen, and P.F. Chang's -- expect long waits for a table at each. In or near the Mission Valley Shopping Center, you'll find an Outback Steakhouse, Hooters, and Mimi's Cafe.

Mission Bay & the Beaches

Restaurants at the beach exist primarily to provide an excuse for sitting and gazing at the water. Because this activity is most commonly accompanied by steady drinking, it stands to reason the food isn't often remarkable. Happily, the past few years have seen an influx of places bucking the trend, or at least raising the level of sophistication. The beautiful party people get their groove and their feed bag on in Pacific Beach at Jordan in the swank Tower 23 hotel, 723 Felspar (tel. 866/869-3723), and Isola, 1269 Garnet Ave. (tel. 858/274-7014). The creator of The Mission opened hip Cantina Panaderia, 966 Felspar (tel. 858/272-8400), an Asian-Latino fusion cafe serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, in the remnants of an old bakery; while Costa Brava, 1653 Garnet Ave. (tel. 858/273-1218), serves traditional Spanish tapas. 3rd Corner, 2265 Bacon St., Ocean Beach (tel. 619/223-2700), shifted its focus from traditional seafood to become a wine shop and bistro with smashing results. The menu is focused on small plates (with a French-Mediterranean flair), but there are also a half-dozen entrees, making it an excellent option for lunch or dinner. Seating for dining is limited, but there's a full bar, lounge, and patio. You can also browse the aisles of wines -- they're for sale. Best of all, 3rd Corner serves food and drinks late -- until 1am (except Mon).

Start your day at the beach at Kono's Surf Club Cafe, 704 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach (tel. 858/483-1669), a Hawaiian-themed boardwalk breakfast shack that's cheap and delicious. A plump Kono's breakfast burrito provides enough fuel for a day of surfing or sightseeing, while a side order of savory "Kono Potatoes" is a meal in itself. And if you're looking for great burgers, you'll find them at Hodad's, 5010 Newport Ave., Ocean Beach (tel. 619/224-4623), and Rocky's Crown Pub, 3786 Ingraham, Pacific Beach (tel. 858/273-9140).

La Jolla

As befits an upscale community with time (and money) on its hands, La Jolla has more than its fair share of good restaurants, and thankfully not all of them are expensive. While many eateries are clustered in the village, on Prospect Street and the few blocks directly east, you can also cruise down La Jolla Boulevard or up by the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club for additional choices.

There are old-school favorites that still impress, like the 12-table, utterly romantic Sky Room at the La Valencia Hotel, 1132 Prospect St. (tel. 858/454-0771), which features fabulous views and French-inspired cuisine. Chef Jean-Michel Diot doesn't have an ocean view at his French restaurant, Tapenade, 7612 Fay Ave. (tel. 858/551-7500), but once you experience his exceptional creations (which include special menus for vegetarians and children), you'll never notice. And there are even more Gallic goings-on just down the street at Michele Coulon Dessertier, 7556D Fay Ave. (tel. 858/456-5098). This small cafe and bakery specializes in decadent desserts, but also serves very good lunches and dinners. For traditional Mexican, head down La Jolla Boulevard to Su Casa, 6738 La Jolla Blvd. (tel. 858/454-0369), a family-friendly joint; or for something more innovative and sophisticated check out Delirio's, 5721 La Jolla Blvd. (tel. 858/456-5821).

Coronado

Rather like the conservative, old-school Navy aura that pervades the entire "island," Coronado's dining options are reliable and sometimes quite good, but the restaurants aren't exactly breaking new culinary ground. A couple exceptions are the resort dining rooms, which seem to be waging a little rivalry over who can attract the most prestigious, multiple-award-winning executive chef. If you're in the mood for a special-occasion meal that'll knock your socks off, consider Azzura Point (tel. 619/424-4000), in Loews Coronado Bay Resort. With its plushly upholstered, gilded, and view-endowed setting, this stylish dining room wins continual raves from deep-pocketed San Diego foodies willing to cross the bay for inventive and artistic California-Mediterranean creations. Meanwhile, the Hotel del Coronado unveiled its new signature restaurant, 1500 Ocean (tel. 619/522-8490), in 2006 to enthusiastic reviews. This smart, contemporary space eschews Victoriana for a stylish California Craftsman look. The menu is California-oriented as well, featuring a Southland coastal cuisine that draws inspiration -- and top-quality products -- from throughout the region, Baja to Santa Barbara. There's also fabulous patio dining here, with views of the ocean and Point Loma in the distance.

If you seek ethnic or funky food, head back across the bridge; but Mexican fare (gringo-style, but well practiced) is served at popular Miguel's Cocina, inside El Cordova Hotel (tel. 619/437-4237).

Off the (Tourist) Beaten Path

Don't limit your dining experience in San Diego to the main tourist zones outlined above. Five minutes north of Mission Valley is the mostly business neighborhood of Kearny Mesa, home to San Diego's best Asian venues. One to try is Jasmine, 4609 Convoy St. (tel. 858/268-0888), which, at lunch, showcases wonderful Hong Kong-style dumplings that are wheeled around the room on carts; dinners are more elaborate -- seafood dishes and the Peking duck served two ways are good choices. Nearby is China Max, 4698 Convoy St. (tel. 858/650-3333), which occupies a nondescript building near the junction of the 805 and 163 freeways; the room is spare, but the kitchen exhibits finesse with southern Chinese delicacies and always has excellent (sometimes pricey) live fish specials. Another place easy to miss, thanks to its strip-mall hideout, is Spicy City, 4690 Convoy St. (tel. 858/278-1818). This is Szechuan food, the real deal. Insiders claim it's best to order off the Chinese-language menu, as some dishes are left off the English menu, plus there are no descriptions of the food. And with dishes like Husband, Wife, and Piece of Lung, you're going to want to know exactly what you're getting, so brush up on your Mandarin.

Just east of Hillcrest (south and parallel to Mission Valley) is Adams Avenue, one of the city's streets of character, with antiques shops and bistros en route to Kensington. Here you'll find the Kensington Grill, 4055 Adams Ave. (tel. 619/281-4014), next to the Ken Cinema. It's owned by the same crew in charge of dining hot spots Chive and Laurel and features contemporary American cuisine in a chic setting that draws lots of neighborhood types. In nearby Normal Heights, Jyoti Bihanga, 3351 Adams Ave. (tel. 619/282-4116), delivers a vegetarian menu of Indian-influenced salads, wraps, and curries; the "neatloaf," made with grains and tofu, is a winner. All items are priced around $10.

South of Adams Avenue, University Avenue runs through North Park. This working-class neighborhood has been infused with new life and new development, most notably the resurrected North Park Theatre, a performing arts venue originally built in 1928. Next door to the theater is Spread, 2879 University Ave. (tel. 619/543-0406), where the "nouveau comfort food" menu is vegetarian/vegan, relying on a daily influx of seasonal, organic products. Excellent health-conscious Mexican food (yes, it does exist) is found at Ranchos Cocina, 3910 30th St. (tel. 619/574-1288), just off University Avenue. This popular eatery will even prepare you something vegan -- try asking for that in Old Town.

Out in the far-flung 'burb of Rancho Bernardo awaits one of San Diego's most memorable dining experiences. El Bizcocho is the fine-dining restaurant at the golf and tennis resort Rancho Bernardo Inn, 17550 Bernardo Oaks Dr. (tel. 858/675-8550). It's one of the last of San Diego's formal, gourmet experiences, serving classic French dishes with a California twist. El Biz's Gavin Kaysen can literally claim to be one of the world's top chefs -- he represented the United States at the 2007 Bocuse d'Or in Lyon, France. A kind of culinary Olympics, this competition is held every 2 years and showcases some two dozen chefs from around the world.