San Diego Neighborhoods

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Downtown, the Gaslamp & Little Italy

Two decades ago, downtown was the domain of a few high-priced and highfalutin Continental and American restaurants and little else. But the area was turned on its ear when the new convention center opened. Swank spots began moving in to the Gaslamp Quarter's restored Victorian buildings in the late 1980s. Although the initial trend -- no doubt designed to cater to the expense-account crowd -- leaned to thick steaks and heaping plates of pasta, the overall menu is evolving toward the less heavy and the more ethnic. Today, the Gaslamp positively percolates with its concentration of dining options, at all price levels and showcasing a variety of cuisines. As half-million-dollar condos continue to be bought up before they're even built, watch for the number and variety of restaurants here to swell even further.

Our downtown section is hardly limited to the 16 1/2-block Gaslamp Quarter (although that's where you'll find most of the nightlife after 9pm). The Embarcadero, a stretch of waterfront along the bay, is also home to several great eating spots, all of which capitalize on their bay views. And Little Italy -- home to stalwart Filippi's Pizza Grotto -- has benefited from the arrival of Indigo Grill, where the fusion of cuisines seems to include almost everything but Italian. There are several excellent restaurants just north of the "border" created by I-5 -- these are described in the Hillcrest & Uptown section that follows. Also check out Mister Tiki's Mai Tai Lounge, 801 Fifth Ave. at F St. (tel. 619/233-1183), which opened just as we were going to press.

A word on parking: On evenings when the Padres are playing, or when a big convention has filled the hotels, you'll compete for parking. Fortunately, pedicabs -- three-wheeled bikes that carry two passengers each -- are easy to hire. But if you take a taxi or the trolley downtown on game nights, you'll find most restaurants easy to get into once the first pitch is thrown. Try the excellent bistro Cafe Chloe, 721 Ninth Ave. (tel. 619/232-3242), which has created a buzz in the ballpark district.

Downtown dining tends to be more formal than elsewhere, because of the business clientele and evening theater- and operagoers, but no one posts a jacket policy anymore.

Hillcrest & Uptown

Hillcrest and the other gentrified uptown neighborhoods to its west and east are jam-packed with great food for any palate (and any wallet). Some are old standbys filled nightly with loyal regulars; others are cutting-edge experiments that might be gone next year. Whether it's ethnic food, French food, health-conscious bistro fare, retro comfort food, specialty cafes and bakeries, or California cuisine, they're often mastered with the innovative panache you'd expect in the most nonconformist part of town.

Hash House a Go Go, 3628 Fifth Ave. (tel. 619/298-4646), occupies a reconverted building with an eclectic pun-filled menu of upscale comfort food. They serve three meals a day, but breakfast is the locals' choice; you'd better be hungry, because portions are mountainous. Also note that the popular Whole Foods supermarket, 711 University Ave. (tel. 619/294-2800), has a mouthwatering deli and a robust salad bar -- you can pack for a picnic or eat at the tables up front.

Old Town & Mission Valley

Visitors usually have at least one meal in Old Town, and although this area showcases San Diego at its most touristy, I can't argue with the appeal of dining in California's charming original settlement. Mexican food and bathtub-size margaritas are the big draws, as are mariachi music and colorful decor. For a change of pace, stop by Mrs. Burton's Tea Parlor in Heritage Park (tel. 619/294-4600), where afternoon tea is served with an assortment of sandwiches, scones, tarts, and fresh fruit for $18 ($15 for children 12 and under); reservations are requested, and it's closed on Mondays.

Old Town is also the gateway to the decidedly less historic Mission Valley. Here you'll find plenty of chain eateries, both good and bad, and not discussed in depth below. In the very busy Fashion Valley Shopping Center complex lie the Cheesecake Factory, California Pizza Kitchen, and P.F. Chang's -- expect long waits for a table at each. In or near the Mission Valley Shopping Center you'll find an Outback Steakhouse, Hooters, and Mimi's Cafe.

Mission Bay & the Beaches

Generally speaking, restaurants at the beach exist primarily to provide an excuse for sitting and gazing at the water. Because this activity is most commonly accompanied by steady drinking, it stands to reason that the food isn't often remarkable. I've tried to balance the most scenic of these typical hangouts with places actually known for above-average food -- with a little effort, they can be found.

Noteworthy beach spots include Kono's Surf Club Cafe, 704 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach (tel. 858/483-1669), a Hawaiian-themed boardwalk breakfast shack that's cheap and delicious. A plump Kono's breakfast burrito provides enough fuel for a day of surfing or sightseeing, while a side order of savory "Kono Potatoes" is a meal in itself.

Baja Fish Tacos--One of San Diego's culinary ironies is that, although the city is conscious of its Hispanic roots -- not to mention within visual range of the Mexican border -- it's hard to find anything other than gringo-ized combo plates in many local Mexican restaurants. But one item you'll see on many local menus is the fish taco. San Diego is where this tasty, deceptively simple creation was popularized, at once humble Rubio's Baja Grill.

The story: After years of scarfing down cheap beers and fish tacos from thatched-roof shacks along Baja's beach roads, local surfer Ralph Rubio secured the "secret" recipe for this treat: batter-dipped, deep-fried fish filets folded in corn tortillas and garnished with shredded cabbage, salsa, and tangy crema (a creamy sauce similar to crème fraîche). In 1983, Rubio opened a tiny walk-up taco stand on busy Mission Bay Drive, and the tacos soon became the unofficial fast food of San Diego. You can now find Rubio's throughout California and the Southwest, even edging out hot dogs in the stands at Qualcomm Stadium. Rubio's has since expanded its menu to include other Mexican dishes, all accented by the distinctively Baja flavors of fresh lime and tangy cilantro. And unlike your average McDrive-through, at Rubio's you can wash it all down with an icy-cold beer.

Because many of the two dozen or so newer locations have a homogenous look to them, it's fun to stop by the original stand, at 4504 E. Mission Bay Dr., at Bunker Hill Street (tel. 858/272-2801), if you're in the neighborhood.

La Jolla

As befits an upscale community with time (and money) on its hands, La Jolla has more than its fair share of good restaurants. Happily, they're not all expensive, and are more ethnically diverse than you might expect in a community that still supports a haberdashery called The Ascot Shop. While many restaurants are clustered in the village, on Prospect Street and the few blocks directly east, you can also cruise down La Jolla Boulevard or up by the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club for additional choices. For traditional Mexican, head down La Jolla Boulevard to Su Casa (tel. 858/454-0369), a family-friendly joint that serves above-average margaritas and a tasty, made-at-the-table guacamole.

Coronado

Rather like the conservative, old-school navy aura that pervades the entire "island," Coronado's dining options are reliable and often quite good, but the restaurants aren't exactly breaking new culinary ground.

A couple exceptions are the resort dining rooms, which seem to be waging a little rivalry over who can attract the most prestigious, multiple-award-winning executive chef. If you're in the mood for a special-occasion meal that'll knock your socks off, consider Azzura Point (tel. 619/424-4000), in Loews Coronado Bay Resort. With its plushly upholstered, gilded, and view-endowed setting, this stylish dining room wins continual raves from deep-pocketed San Diego foodies willing to cross the bay for inventive and artistic California-Mediterranean creations. The Hotel Del's fancy Prince of Wales (tel. 619/522-8496) is equally scenic, gazing at the beach across the hotel's regal Windsor Lawn; the eclectic California menu always showcases the best of seasonally fresh ingredients.

But if you seek ethnic or funky food, better head back across the bridge. Mexican fare (gringo-style, but well practiced) is served on the island at popular Miguel's Cocina, inside El Cordova Hotel (tel. 619/437-4237).