San Diego Restaurants

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San Diego's dining scene, once a culinary backwater, has come into its own during the past decade. The spark for this new spirit of experimentation and style has been an explosion in the transplant population and cultural diversification. But other factors are at play. A bustling economy helps, motivating folks to step out and exercise their palates. These new foodies have been taught to respect the seasonality of vegetables, allowing chefs to revel in the bounteous agriculture of San Diego County by focusing on produce when flavors are at their peak at specialized North County growers like Chino Farms and Be Wise Ranch.

Top young cooks are increasingly lured by San Diego's agreeable lifestyle and the chance to make a fast impression in the region's dining scene. I've met more than one chef seduced by the idea that you can surf in the ocean each morning, then in the afternoon hand-select fresh produce at the farm where it was grown to serve guests that night. And although we import chefs from around the world, we've even started exporting them -- Marine Room wizard Bernard Guillas represents America at illustrious events like the Masters of Food and Wine, and Michael Stebner of Region cooks at the James Beard House.

As you can imagine, San Diego offers terrific seafood: Whether at unembellished market-style restaurants that let the fresh catch take center stage or at upscale restaurants that feature extravagant presentations, the ocean's bounty is everywhere. Those traditional mainstays, American and Continental cuisine, still carry their share of the weight in San Diego. But, with increasing regularity, they're mating with lighter, more contemporary, often ethnic styles. The movement is akin to the eclectic fusion cuisine that burst onto the scene in the early 1990s. That's not to say traditionalists will be disappointed: San Diego still has plenty of clubby steak-and-potatoes stalwarts, and we're loaded with the chain restaurants you'll probably recognize from home.

But number one on most every visitor's list of priorities is Mexican food -- a logical choice given the city's history and location. You'll find lots of highly Americanized, often satisfying interpretations of Mexican fare (that is, combo plates heaped with melted cheddar cheese) along with a few hidden gems, like El Agave and Escondido's Hacienda de Vega, which serve true south-of-the-border cuisine. And don't miss our humble fish taco, perhaps the city's favorite fast food.

San Diego's multicultural fabric ensures that ethnic foods are a good option when you want something more exotic than Mexican or Italian fare. While Chinese restaurants have long had a place at the table, Asian cuisine today also means Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese, and Cambodian restaurants. A drive through the heart of Kearny Mesa reveals a panoply of Asian eateries at all prices, along with vast grocery stores brimming with quirky delicacies. But also note that many intrepid "mainstream" chefs fuse Asian ingredients and preparations with more familiar Mediterranean or French menus.

In this section, restaurants in San Diego proper are indexed by location and price category. However, note that some of San Diego's best dining venues lie 30 to 40 minutes to the north, in the communities of Rancho Santa Fe, Del Mar, and Carlsbad.

In keeping with our beach culture, even in the more pricey places, dress tends to be casual. Some notable exceptions are downtown and La Jolla's more expensive restaurants and the hotels on Coronado, where jeans are a no-no and gentlemen may feel more comfortable in a dinner jacket.

For diners on a budget, the more expensive San Diego restaurants are usually accommodating if you want to order a few appetizers instead of a main course, and many offer reasonably priced lunch menus. Worthwhile discount coupons are found in the San Diego Weekly Reader, available free on Thursdays (and known as The Weekly in an edited version distributed at local hotels). And quite a few restaurants, like Chez Loma and Café Pacifica, offer "early bird" specials -- discounted dining for those who don't mind being seated by 6pm or so.

Restaurants are categorized by the average cost of one entree, an appetizer (if the entree does not come with a side dish or appetizer), one non-alcoholic drink, tax, and tip: Very Expensive means a meal averages $50 per person and up; Expensive, $30 to $50; Moderate, $15 to $30; and Inexpensive, under $15.

A note on parking: Unless a listing specifies otherwise, drivers can expect to park within 2 or 3 blocks of the restaurants listed here. If you can't find a free or metered space on the street, you can seek out a garage or lot; most Gaslamp Quarter and La Jolla venues offer valet parking.

Wood-Fired Pizza

It all started with Wolfgang Puck, that crafty Austrian chef who dazzled Hollywood diners at Spago and went on to build a dynasty of California cuisine. Today, for a whole generation of Californians, pizza means barbecued chicken, tomato-basil, or goat cheese and sun-dried tomato, and kitchens all over San Diego stoke their wood-fired ovens to keep up with the demand. Two locally based chains deserve special note, and despite being alike, each chain thrives by covering neighborhoods the other doesn't. Prices are inexpensive to moderate.

Always a favorite in San Diego polls is Sammy's California Woodfired Pizza at 770 Fourth Ave., at F Street, in the Gaslamp Quarter (tel. 619/230-8888); 1620 Camino de la Reina in Mission Valley (tel. 619/298-8222); 702 Pearl St., at Draper Street, La Jolla (tel. 858/456-5222); and 12925 El Camino Real, at Del Mar Heights Road, Del Mar (tel. 858/259-6600). Sammy's serves creations like duck sausage, potato garlic, or Jamaican jerk shrimp atop 10-inch rounds. It also excels at enormous salads, making it easy to share a meal and save a bundle.

A similar menu is available at Pizza Nova, a local mini-chain with a vibrant atmosphere. You'll find them at 3955 Fifth Ave., north of University Avenue in Hillcrest (tel. 619/296-6682); 5120 N. Harbor Dr., west of Nimitz Boulevard in Point Loma (tel. 619/226-0268); and 975 Loma Santa Fe Dr., near I-5 in Solana Beach (tel. 858/259-0666).

Picnic Fare

San Diego's benign climate lends itself to dining alfresco. An excellent spot to pick up sandwiches is The Cheese Shop, a gourmet deli with locations downtown at 627 4th Ave. (tel. 619/232-2303) and in La Jolla Shores at 2165 Avenida de la Playa (tel. 858/459-3921). Other places to buy picnic fare include Girard Gourmet, 7837 Girard Ave., La Jolla (tel. 858/454-3321); Boudin Sourdough Bakery and Cafe (tel. 619/234-1849) and the Farmer's Market, both in Horton Plaza; and Old Town Liquor and Deli, 2304 San Diego Ave. (tel. 619/291-4888).

Another spot that's very popular is Point Loma Seafoods, on the water's edge in front of the Municipal Sportfishing Pier, at 2805 Emerson near Scott Street, south of Rosecrans and west of Harbor Drive (tel. 619/223-1109). There's a fish market here, and you can pick up seafood sandwiches, fresh sushi, and salads to go. If you decide to make your own sandwiches, the best bread in the county comes from Bread & Cie., 350 University Ave., Hillcrest (tel. 619/683-9322); and Villa Nueva Bakery Café, 956 Orange Ave., Coronado (tel. 619/435-4191), is a close runner-up.

Off the (Tourist) Beaten Path

Don't limit your dining experience in San Diego to the main tourist zones outlined above. Five minutes north of Mission Valley is the mostly business neighborhood of Kearny Mesa, home to San Diego's best Asian venues. One to try is Jasmine, 4609 Convoy St. (tel. 858/268-0888), which at lunch showcases wonderful Hong Kong-style dumplings that are wheeled around the room on carts; dinners are more elaborate, with seafood and Peking duck two ways a good choice. Nearby is China Max, 4698 Convoy St. (tel. 858/650-3333), which occupies a nondescript building near the junction of the 805 and 163 freeways; the room is spare, but the kitchen exhibits finesse with southern Chinese delicacies and always has excellent (sometimes pricey) live fish specials.

Just east of Hillcrest (south and parallel to Mission Valley) is Adams Avenue, one of the city's streets of character, with antiques shops and bistros en route to Kensington. Here you'll find the Kensington Grill, 4055 Adams Ave., next to the Ken Cinema (tel. 619/281-4014), owned by the same crew in charge of the Gaslamp's hip Chive and featuring contemporary American cuisine in a chic setting that draws lots of neighborhood types. In nearby Normal Heights, Jyoti Bihanga, 3351 Adams Ave. (tel. 619/282-4116), caters to followers of Sri Chinmoy and delivers a vegetarian menu of Indian-influenced salads, wraps, and curries; the "neatloaf" is a winner. All items are priced under $10.