The only way to get to Royal Davui Island Resort is by helicopter, which picked us up in a pasture near Nadi. The resort, which opened two years ago, is owned and operated by a Fijian family, descendants of colonial settlers.
Our room was a luxurious villa on a lush cliff, with sitting room, deck, outdoor plunge pool, spa bath in the bathroom and a large bedroom with slide-away glass walls, all with uninterrupted views of the sea below.
There was even a "pillow menu" next to the bed, so that if we objected to the texture of the one provided, we could summon another kind. This may be de rigueur at the retreat spots for the world's rich and famous, but such a small thing spoke of a new era of hospitality for Fiji.