Napa Valley Overview

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Back to Napa Wine CountryNapa Valley Travel Guide

55 miles N of San Francisco

Napa serves as the commercial center of the Wine Country and the gateway to Napa Valley. Most visitors whiz past it on their way to the heart of the valley, but if you veer off the highway, you'll be surprised to discover a small but burgeoning community of nearly 75,000 residents and some of the most affordable accommodations in the area. It is also in the process of gentrification, thanks to relatively affordable housing and ongoing additions of new restaurants and attractions, the latest of which is Oxbow Market, a culinary destination by the developer behind San Francisco's famed Ferry Building Marketplace. Heading north on either Highway 29 or the Silverado Trail leads you to Napa's wineries and the more quintessential Wine Country atmosphere of vineyards and wide-open country views.

A mildly interesting stop is Copia: The American Center for Wine, Food & the Arts, 500 First St. (tel. 707/259-1600; www.copia.org), which explores how wine and food influence our culture. This $50-million, multifaceted facility tackles the topic in myriad ways -- with rotating art exhibitions, vegetable and herb gardens, culinary demonstrations, wine classes, concerts, and opportunities to dine and drink on the premises. Truth is, for drop-by visitors to the art galleries, there's not a lot of "there" there. But if you're interested in watching a cooking demonstration with a famous chef (for an extra fee), exploring organic gardens, browsing the gift shop, or catching a great evening movie (on Fri) or an alfresco musical performance (on Mon during summer months; bring a lawn chair and blanket), you can find it here. Check the schedule in advance and book a class (they often sell out), so you know what you're in for. You can also grab gourmet picnic items, taste wines, or dine in the adjoining California-French restaurant, Julia's Kitchen, named after Julia Child. (Personally, I'd skip it; there are so many more memorable places to dine in the valley.)

Copia admission is $5 for adults, $4 for seniors and students and free for children 12 and under. Wednesday admissions are half price for Napa and Sonoma residents. The center is open Wednesday through Monday from 10am to 5pm. The restaurant stays open until 9:30pm Thursday through Sunday.

Across the street from Copia is the new Oxbow Market (600 First St., adjacent to Copia; www.oxbowpublicmarket.com), which is slated to debut in fall 2007. A smaller version of San Francisco's Ferry Building Marketplace, the co-op will feature a cornucopia of tasty tenants, including a new restaurant by the owners of Napa's Bistro Don Giovanni restaurant, a number of organic produce vendors, an exceptional rotisserie chicken joint called RoliRoti (try the potatoes!), a wine bar, yet another outpost of Taylor's Automatic Refresher, a food-related antique shop, and many other reasons to loosen your belt and grip on your wallet. This is also the new home to the farmers market previously held at Copia; it's held seasonally May through October on Tuesdays from 7:30am to noon and Saturday 8am to noon. Check the website to confirm times, as they are subject to change.

Anyone with an appreciation for art must visit the di Rosa Preserve, which through a private tour explores the collection and 215-acre grounds of Rene and Veronica di Rosa, who have been collecting contemporary American art for more than 40 years. Their world-renowned collection features 2,000-plus works in all media by more than 900 Greater Bay Area artists. Treasures are on display practically everywhere -- from along the shores of their 30-acre lake to each nook and cranny of their century-old winery-turned-residence, adjoining building, two additional galleries, and gardens. It's at 5200 Sonoma Hwy. (Hwy. 121/12). Drop-ins are welcome at the Gatehouse Gallery Tuesday through Friday from 9:30am to 3pm; $3 suggested donation. One- and 2-hour, $15, docent-led tours are offered Thursday through Saturday; check www.dirosapreserve.org for times. Reservations are recommended. Call tel. 707/226-5991 to make reservations.

Discount shoppers should pull off Highway 29 at Napa's First Street exit to find the Napa Premium Outlets (tel. 707/226-9876; www.premiumoutlets.com). Shoppers will find multiple places to part with their money including Barneys New York, Tse (cashmere at basement prices!), Nine West, Jones New York, BCBG, kitchenware shops, a food court, and a decent but expensive sushi restaurant. The shops are open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 8pm, and Sunday from 10am to 6pm.

South of downtown Napa, 1 1/3 miles east of Highway 29 on Highway 12, the Chardonnay Golf Club (tel. 707/257-8950; chardonnaygolfclub.com) is a 36-hole land-links golf complex with first-class service. Three 9s of equal difficulty start at the clubhouse, so you can play the 18 holes of your choice. You pay just one fee, which makes you a member for the day. Privileges include the use of a golf cart and the practice range (including a bucket of balls), and access to services usually found only at a private club. Starting times can be reserved up to 2 weeks in advance. Greens fees (including mandatory cart and practice balls) are $47 Monday through Friday, $79 weekends and holidays before 12:30pm; twilight fees go down to around $45 on weekdays and $59 on weekends.