San Sebastian

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Back to Puerto VallartaSan Sebastian, Mexico

If you haven't heard about San Sebastián yet, it probably won't be long -- its remote location and historic appeal have made it the Mexican media's new darling destination. Originally discovered in the late 1500s and settled in 1603, the town peaked as a center of mining operations, swelling to a population of over 30,000 by the mid-1800s. Today, with roughly 600 year-round residents, San Sebastián retains all the charm of a village locked in time, with an old church, a coffee plantation, an underground tunnel system -- and wholly without a T-shirt shop.

Getting There -- By car, it's a 2 1/2-hour drive up the Sierra Madre from Puerto Vallarta on an improved road, but it can be difficult during the summer rainy season, when the road washes out frequently. Vallarta Adventures (tel. 866/256-2739 toll-free in the U.S., or 322/297-1212, ext. 3; www.vallarta-adventures.com) runs a daily plane service for half-day tours and can occasionally accommodate overnight visitors. The small private airport can arrange flights. Aerotrón (tel. 322/221-1921) charges about $130 round-trip, Aéro Taxis de la Bahía (tel. 322/221-1990) about $92 round-trip, depending on the type of plane and number of passengers. For more information on air tours and horseback-riding excursions, see the "Organized Tours" section, earlier in this chapter.

Where to Stay -- There are two places to stay in San Sebastián. The first is the very basic El Pabellón de San Sebastián, which faces the town square. Its nine simply furnished rooms surround a central patio. Don't expect extras here; rates run $40 per double. The town's central phone lines handle reservations -- you call (tel. 322/297-0200) and leave a message or send a fax, and hopefully the hotel will receive it. More reliable is e-mail: ssb@pvnet.com.mx. Except on holidays, there is generally room at this inn. No credit cards.

A more enjoyable option is the stately Hacienda Jalisco (tel. 322/223-1695; www.haciendajalisco.com), built in 1850 and once the center of mining operations in this mining town. The beautifully landscaped, rambling old hacienda is near the airstrip a 15-minute walk from town. Proprietor Bud Acord has welcomed John Huston, Liz Taylor, Richard Burton, Peter O'Toole, and a cast of local characters over the years.

The 10 extra-clean rooms have wood floors, rustic furnishings and antiques, and working fireplaces; some are decorated with pre-Columbian reproductions. The ample bathrooms are beautifully tiled and have skylights. Hammocks grace the upstairs terrace, while a sort-of museum on the lower level attests to the celebrity guests and importance the hacienda has enjoyed over the years. Because of its remote location, all meals are included. Rates are $80 per person per night, and includes full breakfast and dinner; alcoholic beverages are extra. Reserve through e-mail (pmt15@hotmail.com or info@haciendajalisco.com), through the town telephone listed above, or on their website. Group rates and discounts for longer stays are available. No credit cards. Guided horseback, walking, or mine tours can be arranged through the Hacienda.