Bucerias

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Back to Puerto VallartaBucerias, Mexico

Only 18km (11 miles) north of the Puerto Vallarta airport, Bucer?as ("boo-seh-ree-ahs," meaning "place of the divers") is a small coastal fishing village of 10,000 people in Nayarit state on Banderas Bay. It's caught on as an alternative to Puerto Vallarta for those who find the pace of life there too invasive. Bucer?as offers a seemingly contradictory mix of accommodations -- trailer-park spaces and exclusive villa rentals tend to dominate, although there's a small selection of hotels as well.

To reach the town center by car, take the exit road from the highway and drive down the shaded, divided street that leads to the beach. Turn left when you see a line of minivans and taxis (which serve Bucerías and Vallarta). Go straight ahead 1 block to the main plaza. The beach, with a lineup of restaurants, is a half-block farther. You'll see cobblestone streets leading from the highway to the beach, and hints of villas and town homes behind high walls. Second-home owners and about 1,500 transplanted Americans have already sought out this peaceful getaway; tourists have discovered its relaxed pace as well.

If you take the bus to Bucer?as, exit when you see the minivans and taxis to and from Bucer?as line up on the street that leads to the beach. To use public transportation from Puerto Vallarta, take a minivan or bus marked BUCERIAS (they run from 6am-9pm). The last minivan stop is Bucer?as's town square. There's also 24-hour taxi service.

Exploring Bucerías -- Come here for a day trip from Puerto Vallarta just to enjoy the long, wide, uncrowded beach, along with the fresh seafood served at the beachside restaurants or at one of the unusually great cafes listed below. If you are inclined to stay a few days, you can relax inexpensively and explore more of Bucer?as. Sunday is street-market day, but it doesn't get going until around noon, in keeping with the town's casual pace.

The Coral Reef Surf Shop, Heroe de Nacozari 114-F (tel. 329/298-0261), sells a great selection of surfboards and gear, and offers surfboard and boogie board rentals, surf lessons, and ATV and other adventure tours to surrounding areas.

Where to Stay -- Unfortunately, I cannot recommend any of the hotels in Bucerías; they're run-down, and most people who choose to stay here opt for a private home rental. Check out the villa rental bulletin board at www.sunworx.com. Las Palmas in Bucerías (tel. 329/298-0060; fax 329/298-1100) will book accommodations, including villas, houses, and condos. Call ahead, or ask for directions to the office when you get to Bucerías. It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 2pm and 4 to 6pm, Saturday from 9am to 2pm.

Where to Dine -- There are many seafood restaurants fronting the beach. The local specialty is pescado zarandeado, a whole fish smothered in tasty sauce and slow-grilled.