Las Vegas Nightlife Spots

This genuine European-style cafe (well, by way of California) is owned and operated by the charming and friendly Kirk, a choreographer who lived in Italy for 10 years. Originally just an itty-bitty location on Flamingo, it's now a larger but still intimate venue (seating only 40) on Sahara, an even farther drive for the average tourist, but well worth it if you want something less Vegas. Featuring candlelight and cool jazz most nights, with hot art on the walls, they try to serve eclectic and unusual wines, along with multiple coffee drinks (be sure to try the terrific Illy, a renowned Italian brand). There's a small but satisfying food menu featuring inexpensive authentic Italian specialties -- simple pastas, focaccia bread, and so forth, all made by Kirk on the spot. It's a great respite from the maddening crowds (and a cheap place to eat well), though it fills up with the owner's show-and-dance pals after the shows let out. A sign warns you not to order lemon peel with your espresso -- if you do, be prepared to be sworn at (sweetly) in Italian. Open Sunday through Thursday from 4 to 11pm and Friday and Saturday from 4pm to midnight.

- Frommer's