Las Vegas Hotels

Huh? What happened to Treasure Island? What happened to the pirates? Why, Vegas grew up, that's what. Or, rather, it wants the kids it once actively tried to court to grow up, or at least, not come around until they are able to drink and gamble properly.

Originally the most modern family-friendly hotel, the Treasure Island was a blown-up version of Disneyland's Pirates of the Caribbean. But that's all behind them now, and the slight name change is there to make sure you understand that this is a grown-up, sophisticated resort. There might still be the odd pirate element here and there, but only because someone absentmindedly missed it in a ruthless purging of the last remnants. One victim is the pirate stunt show out front; it's been revamped so that the pirates, and you have no idea how much we wish we were making this up, now "battle" scantily clad "strippers" -- er, "sirens."

To be fair, none of this matters a whit, unless, like us, you got a kick out of the skulls and crossbones, and treasure chests bursting with jewels and gold, that originally decorated the place. What remains, after they stripped the pirate gilt, is such a nice place to stay that in some ways, it even outranks its older sister, The Mirage. The good-size rooms pretty much follow the pattern of The Mirage's last phase of room decor -- modified French Regency with a mélange of patterns, but the monochromatic color (many shades of gold) tones it down, and overall, while not distinctive, per se, they are much nicer than most in their price range. Good bathrooms feature large soaking tubs -- a bather's delight. Best of all, Strip-side rooms have a view of the pirate battle -- views are best from the sixth floor on up. You know, so you can see right down the sirens' dresses.

The hotel offers half a dozen restaurants, including Isla, The Buffet at TI, and a branch of Los Angeles's Canter's deli. Treasure Island is home to Cirque du Soleil's Mystère, one of the best shows in town.

A free tram travels between TI and The Mirage almost around the clock. For a good photo op, sit in the front of the first car: As you leave the loading dock, note how The Mirage, palm trees, and a bit of the New York-New York skyline are framed in an attractive, and surreal, manner.

There's a full-service spa and health club with a complement of machines, plus sauna, steam, whirlpool, massage, on-site trainers, TVs and stereos with headsets, and anything else you might need (including a full line of Sebastian grooming products in the women's locker room). There's a $20-per-day fee to use the facilities.

The pool is not that memorable, with none of the massive foliage and other details that make the one at The Mirage stand out. (So blah is it that the staff didn't even bother to check room keys when last we swam here.) It's a large, free-form swimming pool with a 230-foot loop slide and a nicely landscaped sun-deck area. It's often crawling with kids, so if that's a turn-off, go elsewhere.

- Frommer's