Hoover Dam & Lake Mead

Back to Las VegasHoover Dam & Lake Mead

30 miles SE of Las Vegas

This is one of the most popular excursions from Las Vegas. Hoover Dam is visited by 2,000 to 3,000 people daily. Why should you join them? Because Hoover Dam is an engineering and architectural marvel, and it changed the Southwest forever. Without it, you wouldn't even be going to Vegas. Kids may be bored, unless they like machinery or just plain big things, but expose them to it anyway, for their own good. (Buy them ice cream and a Hoover Dam snow globe as a bribe.) Obviously, if you are staying at Lake Mead, it's a must.

The tour itself is a bit cursory, but you do get up close and personal with the dam. Wear comfortable shoes; the tour involves a bit of walking. Try to take the tour in the morning to beat the desert heat and the really big crowds. You can have lunch out in Boulder City, and then perhaps drive back through the Valley of Fire State Park (a landscape of wind and water-hewn formations of red sandstone), which is about 60 magnificently scenic miles from Lake Mead (purchase gas before you start!). Or you can spend the afternoon on Lake Mead-centered pursuits such as hiking, boating, even scuba diving in season, or perhaps a rafting trip down the Colorado River.

Getting There

Drive east on Flamingo Road or Tropicana Avenue to U.S. 515 South, which automatically turns into I-93 South and takes you right to the dam. This will involve a rather dramatic drive as you go through Boulder City and come over a rise, and Lake Mead suddenly appears spread out before you. It's a beautiful sight. At about this point, the road narrows to two lanes, and traffic can slow considerably. On normal busy tourist days, this drive would take about an hour. But between construction, security measures that call for most trucks and many other vehicles to be stopped and searched, during peak hours (particularly Sun and the Mon of a holiday weekend, when visitors are returning through Arizona), the drive is taking longer than ever. Plan accordingly.

Go past the turnoff to Lake Mead. As you near the dam, you'll see a five-story parking structure tucked into the canyon wall on your left. Park here ($5 charge) and take the elevators or stairs to the walkway leading to the new visitor center.

If you would rather go on an organized tour, check out Gray Line (tel. 800/634-6579; www.grayline.com), which offers a Hoover Dam package that includes a buffet lunch and a side trip to the Ethel M Chocolate factory. When you're in Las Vegas, look for discount coupons in the numerous free publications available at hotels. The 7 1/2-hour Deluxe Hoover Dam Tour departs daily at 7:30am; the price is $53, and admission to the dam's Discovery Tour is an additional $11.

The Hoover Dam

There would be no Las Vegas as we know it without the Hoover Dam. Certainly, the neon and glitz that we know and love would not exist. In fact, the growth of the entire Southwest can be tied directly to the electricity created by the dam.

Until the Hoover Dam was built, much of the southwestern United States was plagued by two natural problems: parched, sandy terrain that lacked irrigation for most of the year and extensive flooding in spring and early summer, when the mighty Colorado River, fed by melting snow from its source in the Rocky Mountains, overflowed its banks and destroyed crops, lives, and property. On the positive side, raging unchecked over eons, the river's turbulent, rushing waters carved the Grand Canyon.

In 1928, prodded by the seven states through which the river runs during the course of its 1,400-mile journey to the Gulf of California, Congress authorized construction of a dam at Boulder Canyon (later moved to Black Canyon). The Senate's declaration of intention stated, "A mighty river, now a source of destruction, is to be curbed and put to work in the interests of society." Construction began in 1931. Because of its vast scope and the unprecedented problems posed in its realization, the project generated significant advances in many areas of machinery production, engineering, and construction. An army of more than 5,200 laborers was assembled, and work proceeded 24 hours a day. Completed in 1936, 2 years ahead of schedule and $15 million under budget (it is, no doubt, a Wonder of the Modern Fiscal World), the dam stopped the annual floods and conserved water for irrigation, industrial, and domestic use. Equally important, it became one of the world's major electrical-generating plants, providing low-cost, pollution-free hydroelectric power to a score of surrounding communities. Hoover Dam's $165-million cost has been repaid with interest by the sale of inexpensive power to a number of California cities and the states of Arizona and Nevada. The dam is a government project that paid for itself -- a feat almost as awe inspiring as its engineering.

The dam itself is a massive curved wall, 660 feet thick at the bottom, tapering to 45 feet where the road crosses it at the top. It towers 726 feet above bedrock (about the height of a 60-story skyscraper) and acts as a plug between the canyon walls to hold back up to 9.2 trillion gallons of water in Lake Mead, the reservoir created by its construction. Four concrete intake towers on the lake side drop the water down about 600 feet to drive turbines and create power, after which the water spills out into the river and continues south.

All the architecture is on a grand scale, and the design has beautiful Art Deco elements, unusual in an engineering project. Note, for instance, the monumental 30-foot bronze sculpture, Winged Figures of the Republic, flanking a 142-foot flagpole at the Nevada entrance. According to its creator, Oskar Hansen, the sculpture symbolizes "the immutable calm of intellectual resolution, and the enormous power of trained physical strength, equally enthroned in placid triumph of scientific achievement."

The dam has become a major sightseeing attraction, along with Lake Mead, America's largest artificial reservoir and a major Nevada recreation area.

Seven miles northwest of the dam on U.S. 93, you'll pass through Boulder City, which was built to house managerial and construction workers. Sweltering summer heat (many days it is 125?F/52?C) ruled out a campsite by the dam. The higher elevation of Boulder City offered lower temperatures. The city emerged within a single year, turning a desert wasteland into a community of 6,000. By 1934, it was Nevada's third-largest town.

Touring the Dam

The very nice Hoover Dam Visitor Center, a vast three-level circular concrete structure with a rooftop overlook, opened in 1995. You'll enter the Reception Lobby (bags were not allowed inside after the September 11 terrorist attacks, but ask about current security measures, as they may have changed), where you can buy tickets; peruse informational exhibits, photographs, and memorabilia; and view three 12-minute video presentations about the importance of water to life, the events leading up to the construction of Hoover Dam, and the construction itself, as well as the many benefits it confers. Exhibits on the Plaza Level include interactive displays on the environment, habitation, and development of the Southwest, the people who built the dam, and related topics.

Yet another floor up, galleries on the Overlook Level demonstrate, via sculpted bronze panels, the benefits of Hoover Dam and Lake Mead to the states of Arizona, Nevada, and California. The Overlook Level additionally provides an unobstructed view of Lake Mead, the dam, the power plant, the Colorado River, and Black Canyon. (There are multiple photo opportunities throughout this trip.)

You can visit an exhibit center across the street where a 10-minute presentation in a small theater focuses on a topographical map of the 1,400-mile Colorado River. It also has a cafeteria. Notice, by the way, how the restrooms in the exhibition center have only electric dryers and no paper towels? A tribute?

The center closes at 6pm, and 5:15pm is the last admission time. Admission is $11 for adults, $9 for seniors and military personnel and their dependents, $6 for children 7 to 16, and free for children under 7. There is no need to call ahead to reserve a place, but for more information, call tel. 866/730-9097 or 702/494-2517.

At this writing, because of post-September 11 security measures, tours of the dam are highly restricted. It's no longer the quite nifty, and lengthy, experience it once was because access is so limited. Currently, visitors go to the center, see a movie, walk on top of the dam and, best of all, take a 500-foot descent via elevator into the dam to view the massive generators, all using a self-guided tour aided by the occasional information kiosk or guide/docent planted at intervals along the way. None of this is quite as thrilling as the former "hard hat" tours but there are still plenty of curious little tidbits of info to be learned. Obviously, access to the current setup could at any moment be further decreased, or security further tightened, though the decrease in access is sadly more likely.

Some fun facts you might hear along the way: It took 6 1/2 years to fill the lake. Though 96 workers were killed during the construction, contrary to popular myth, none were accidentally buried as the concrete was poured (it was poured only at a level of 8 in. at a time). Look for a monument outside dedicated to the workers who were killed -- "they died to make the desert bloom" -- along with a tombstone for their doggy mascot who was also killed, albeit after the dam was completed. Compare their wages of 50? an hour to those of their Depression-era peers, who made 5? to 30?.

For more information on the dam, and sometimes discount coupons, visit www.usbr.gov/lc/hooverdam.

Lake Mead National Recreation Area

Under the auspices of the National Park Service, 1.5-million-acre Lake Mead National Recreation Area was created in 1936 around Lake Mead (the reservoir lake that is the result of the construction of Hoover Dam) and later Lake Mohave to the south (formed by the construction of Davis Dam). Before the lakes emerged, this desert region was brutally hot, dry, and rugged -- unfit for human habitation. Today, it's one of the nation's most popular playgrounds, attracting about 9 million visitors annually. The two lakes comprise 291 square miles. At an elevation of 1,221 feet, Lake Mead itself extends some 110 miles upstream toward the Grand Canyon. Its 550-mile shoreline, backed by spectacular cliff and canyon scenery, forms a perfect setting for a wide variety of watersports and desert hiking.

The Alan Bible Visitor Center, 4 miles northeast of Boulder City on U.S. 93 at NV 166 (tel. 702/293-8990), can provide information on all area activities and services. You can pick up trail maps and brochures here, view informative films, and find out about scenic drives, accommodations, ranger-guided hikes, naturalist programs and lectures, bird-watching, canoeing, camping, lakeside RV parks, and picnic facilities. The center has some sweet exhibits about the area and is staffed by friendly folks full of local pride. It's open daily from 8:30am to 4:30pm except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's Day.

For information on accommodations, boat rentals, and fishing, call Seven Crown Resorts (tel. 800/752-9669 or 702/293-3484; www.sevencrown.com). You can also find Lake Mead info on the Web at www.nps.gov/lame.

The entry fee for the area is $5 per vehicle, which covers all passengers, or $3 per person if you're walking or biking in.

Outdoor Activities

This is a lovely area for scenic drives amid the dramatic desert landscape. One popular route follows the Lakeshore and Northshore Scenic drives along the edge of Lake Mead. From these roads there are panoramic views of the blue lake, set against a backdrop of the browns, blacks, reds, and grays that make up the desert mountains. Northshore Scenic Drive also leads through areas of brilliant red boulders and rock formations, and you'll find a picnic area along the way.

Boating & Fishing -- A store at Lake Mead Resort and Marina, under the auspices of Seven Crown Resorts (tel. 800/752-9669 or 702/293-3484; www.sevencrown.com), rents fishing boats, ski boats, personal watercraft, and patio boats. It also carries groceries, clothing, marine supplies, sporting goods, water-skiing gear, fishing equipment, and bait and tackle. Nonresidents can get a fishing license here ($69 for a year or $18 for 1-day plus $7 for each additional day; discounts for children under 15 are available; additional fees apply for special fishing classifications). The staff is knowledgeable and can apprise you of good fishing spots. Largemouth bass, striped bass, channel catfish, crappie, and bluegill are found in Lake Mead; rainbow trout, largemouth bass, and striped bass in Lake Mohave. You can also arrange here to rent a fully equipped houseboat at Echo Bay, 40 miles north.

Other convenient Lake Mead marinas offering similar rentals and equipment are Las Vegas Boat Harbor (tel. 702/565-9111 or 702/293-1191; www.lasvegasbaymarina.com), which is even closer to Las Vegas, and Callville Bay Resort & Marina (tel. 800/255-5561 or 702/565-8958; www.callvillebay.com), which is the least crowded of the five on the Nevada Shore.

Camping -- Lake Mead's shoreline is dotted with campsites, all of them equipped with running water, picnic tables, and grills. Available on a first-come, first-served basis, they are administered by the National Park Service (tel. 702/293-8990; www.nps.gov). There's a charge of $10 per night at each campsite.

Canoeing -- The Alan Bible Visitor Center can provide a list of outfitters that rent canoes for trips on the Colorado River. There's one catch, however: A canoeing permit ($10 per person) is required in advance for certain areas near the dam and is available from the Bureau of Reclamation (Attn.: Canoe Launch Permits), Box 60400, Boulder City, NV 89006-0400 (tel. 702/293-8204; www.usbr.gov/lc). You can apply for and receive the permit on the same day that you plan to canoe.

Hiking -- The best season for hiking is November through March (it's too hot the rest of the year). Some ranger-guided hikes are offered via the Alan Bible Visitor Center , which also stocks detailed trail maps. Three trails, ranging in length from 0.75 mile to 6 miles, originate at the visitor center. The 6-mile trail goes past remains of the railroad built for the dam project. Be sure to take all necessary desert-hiking precautions.

Lake Cruises -- A delightful way to enjoy Lake Mead is on a cruise aboard the Lake Mead Cruises boat Desert Princess (tel. 702/293-6180; www.lakemeadcruises.com), a Mississippi-style paddle-wheeler. Cruises depart year-round from a terminal near Lake Mead Resort. It's a relaxing, scenic trip (enjoyed from an open promenade deck or one of two fully enclosed, climate-controlled decks) through Black Canyon and past colorful rock formations known as the "Arizona Paint Pots" en route to Hoover Dam, which is lit at night. Options include narrated midday cruises ($22 adults, $10 children), pizza party cruises ($46 adults, $15 children), dinner cruises ($46 adults, $25 children), sunset dinner/dance cruises with live music ($58 adults, children not permitted), and Sunday brunch cruises ($37 adults, $18 children). Dinner is served in a pleasant, windowed, air-conditioned dining room. There's a full onboard bar. Call for departure times.

Scuba Diving -- October through April, there's good visibility, lessened in summer months when algae flourishes. A list of good dive locations, authorized instructors, and nearby dive shops is available at the Alan Bible Visitor Center . There's a designated underwater-diving area near Lake Mead Marina.

Boulder City

You might want to consider poking around Boulder City on your way back to Vegas. Literally the company town for those building Hoover Dam, it was created by the wives who came with their husbands and turned a temporary site into a real community, since aided by the recreational attractions and attendant businesses of Lake Mead. It doesn't look like much as you first approach it, but once you are in the heart, you'll discover that it's quite charming, an old-fashioned town all the more preserved and quiet due to its status as the only city in Nevada where gambling is illegal. It's worth getting out and taking a little stroll. There are some antiques and curio shops, and a number of family-style restaurants and burger and Mexican joints, including Toto's, a reasonably priced Mexican restaurant at 806 Buchanan Blvd. (tel. 702/293-1744); it's in the Von's shopping center. Or you could try the Coffee Cup Diner, 512 Nevada Hwy. (tel. 702/294-0517), which is right on the road to and from the dam. A '50s diner in looks and menu, it has the usual burgers, shakes, and fries, plus complete breakfasts, and is inexpensive, friendly, and a good place to take the kids.

Where to Stay -- There are a number of little hotels in Boulder City.

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