Area 51 Close Encounter

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Back to Las VegasLas Vegas Day Trips: Area 51

150 miles N of Las Vegas

Want to feel like an extra on the X-Files? Just want to get an idea of the kind of spots the government picks when it needs a place in which to do secret things? Take the drive from Vegas out to the "E. T. Highway," where folks were spotting aliens years before it became fashionable. This is about a 150-mile trip one-way, so it's probably not something to do on a whim, but even for non-alien buffs, it can be a long, strange -- and oddly illuminating -- trip indeed.

What to See & Do

Area 51 is a secret military facility, containing a large air base that the government will not discuss. The site was selected in the mid-1950s for the testing of the U2 spy plane and is supposedly the current testing ground for "black budget" aircraft before their public acknowledgment. (Oh, heck, who are they trying to kid? Of course that's where they are testing high-tech gadgets.) But its real fame comes with the stories of aliens, whose bodies and ships were supposedly taken there when they "crashed" at Roswell.

Mind you, the only thing alien you are guaranteed to see is the landscape. Only fans of desert topography will find the scenery attractive. It's a desolate area, but that's part of the inexplicable charm. There is absolutely a weird vibe in the air; something is going on out here. And one thing's for sure: If you need a place for covert, or at least private, activities, you couldn't find a better location for it. Alien bodies? Shoot, you could hide an entire alien fleet.

But don't come looking for monuments, historical markers, or good shopping -- with a few exceptions, there's a whole lot of nothing out there. You'd think the tourist possibilities would have led to more development, but even in Vegas, despite the presence of plenty of alien merchandise in the gift shops and an entire Area 51-themed shopping area at the airport expansion, there is not as much awareness as you might think. One waitress, when asked if she'd been there, responded, "Not since they remodeled."

All we know for sure is that you turn down one of the most well-maintained dirt roads you will ever encounter, drive a few miles, and come upon a fence with a sign that warns you against going any farther in the utmost of strict terms (though the language has been toned down from "use of deadly force authorized" to threats of fines and jail time). Along the way down that road, notice how there is absolutely no wildlife other than grasshoppers, that the Joshua trees suddenly turn to an enormous size and monstrous shape, and that the few cattle grazing around don't seem like any cattle you've seen before. Then notice those blasted-out craters in the earth, with the core sample holes in the center. When you realize you are looking at nuclear test sites, the desolation and mutations suddenly make sense. Wave hi at the guys in the military vehicles who are making damn sure you don't go through that gate, and hightail it out of there.

The other hot spot is the "town" of Rachel (www.rachel-nevada.com), really just a collection of trailer homes. Here's where you'll find the Little A'Le'Inn (tel. 866/ET-HWY51 or 775/729-2515; www.littlealeinn.com) diner and gift shop ("Earthlings Welcome") -- where a very funny X-Files episode was filmed -- and, in theory, chat with fellow E. T. spotters, who often gather at night to search the skies. The owners don't play along as much as one would like, though they do feel they were "called there for a special purpose," but their gift shop makes up for it with fine humorous souvenirs. (We liked the alien-head-shaped guitar pick.) Plus, they serve up satisfying diner food.

You can also drop in at the Area 51 Research Center (just look for the big yellow trailer), which was opened after its founder (Glenn Campbell, who is largely responsible for Area 51's recent cultural icon status, and who wrote the definitive book Area 51 Viewer's Guide) got kicked out of the Little A'Le'Inn. Their headquarters is now in Las Vegas, and their store may be opening only during spring and summer, so call before you visit. It stocks all manner of Area 51 logo items and a number of related books.

There is no place to stay out here, so unless you want to camp (which could be fun; aliens usually show up at night), plan this as a lengthy day trip. Be sure to fill your tank before you head out, as there are few opportunities to do so once you leave Vegas. If you'll be doing this drive in the heat of the summer, bring water for your car and for yourself. Along the way, keep your eyes peeled for little green men (or weather balloons, jackrabbits, tumbleweeds, broken-down cars . . .), and should you spot one, don't forget to write us all about it.

By the way, word is starting to spread of a really mysterious secret base even farther out in the desert. Just mention Area 58, and watch people go nuts.

Getting There

Take I-15 north to U.S. 93 North (paying close attention -- it's an easy exit to miss; if you do, you can take NV 168 at Moapa west back to U.S. 93), and then get off at the E. T. Highway, a 98-mile stretch of NV 375. The town of Rachel is approximately 43 miles away; the "black mailbox" (it's now white) road, which leads you to Area 51, actually comes first, about 17 miles down the highway. (We strongly suggest going to Rachel first, to get your bearings, chat with knowledgeable locals and other alien-spotters, and pick up some literature, including a good local map.) Turn left and keep driving; any of the dirt roads that lead off of it will get you to the Area 51 fence and gates. Veer right at the fork in the road (not the ranch turnoff, which you come to first) if you want to go to the most commonly talked about entrance, the one at Groom Lake (though you can't see the lake from where you are forced to stop).

For More Information

For more information, call the Nevada Commission on Tourism (tel. 800/NEVADA-8; www.travelnevada.com) and ask them to send you their Pioneer Territory brochure and a list of E. T. Highway services (gas stations, chambers of commerce, restaurants, and more). On the Internet, check out www.ufomind.com/area51 (this is a huge site maintained by the Area 51 Research folks that contains countless links and all sorts of information) and www.ufo-hyway.com.