Oahu Hotels

This property recently completed a massive $35-million renovation to revitalize its dark interior, which had existed for 30-years as an unrequited casino. The lobby is now open and airy with floor-to-ceiling windows framing the dramatic oceanview. The resort is spectacular: an hour's drive from Waikiki, but eons away in its country feeling. Presiding over 808 acres, Turtle Bay is loaded with activities and 5 miles of shoreline with secluded white-sand coves. It's located on Kalaeokaunu Point ("point of the altar"), where ancient Hawaiians built a small altar to the fish gods (the altar's remains are now at the Bishop Museum).

All rooms have ocean views (some have balconies) and now feature marble floors and countertops in the bathroom, and comfy bedding. Unfortunately, the improvements -- though significant -- don't live up to the expensive rack rates: For these prices you can stay in true luxury at the Halekulani in Waikiki, where you will get much better accommodations and much-improved service. If you can afford it, book the separate beach cottages. Positioned right on the ocean (the views alone are worth the price), the 42 bungalows boast hardwood floors, four-poster beds with feather comforters, and butler service, even their own private check-in and concierge.

The new Zen-like Spa Luana offers six treatment rooms, a meditation waiting area, and an outdoor workout area, plus a complete fitness center and a private elevator to the spa's reserved rooms on the second floor. The new restaurant, 21 Degrees North, is so fabulous people drive from all over the island to eat there.

Facilities: 4 restaurants; 2 bars (live entertainment Fri-Sat at the Bay Club Lounge, plus a poolside bar); 2 outdoor heated pools (w/80-ft. water slide); 36 holes of golf; 10 Plexipave tennis courts; spa w/fitness center; 2 Jacuzzis; watersports equipment rentals; concierge; activities desk; business center; salon; room service; babysitting; coin-op washer/dryers; laundry service; dry cleaning; stable w/horseback riding.

- Frommer's