Historic Honolulu

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The Waikiki you see today bears no resemblance to the Waikiki of yesteryear, a place of vast taro fields extending from the ocean to deep into Manoa Valley, dotted with numerous fish ponds and gardens tended by thousands of people. This picture of old Waikiki can be recaptured by following the emerging Waikiki Historic Trail, a meandering 2-mile walk with 20 bronze surfboard markers (standing 6 ft. 5 in. tall -- you can't miss 'em), complete with descriptions and archive photos of the historic sites. The markers note everything from Waikiki's ancient fish ponds to the history of the Ala Wai Canal. The trail begins at Kuhio Beach and ends at the King Kalakaua statue, at the intersection of Kuhio and Kalakaua avenues. Free, guided walking tours, sponsored by the Native Hawaiian Hospitality Association, are given every Tues., Thurs., and Sat. Meet at the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center stage, near the fountain, at 9 am. For more information, call tel. 808/737-6442 or www.waikikihistoricaltrail.com.

A hula performance is a popular way for visitors to get a taste of traditional Hawaiian culture. Unfortunately the Kodak Hula Show at the Waikiki Band Shell at Kapiolani Park closed in 2002. For a more genuine Hawaiian hula experience, catch the hula halau performed Monday through Friday at 1pm at the Bishop Museum .

Cultural Activities

The best place to learn about and participate in ancient Hawaiian culture is the Hawaiian Hall of the Bishop Museum, 1525 Bernice St., Honolulu (tel. 808/847-3511; www.bishopmuseum.org; TheBus: 2). The museum offers hula performances daily at 11am and 2pm, as well as dramatic presentations of Hawaiian legends, Monday through Friday at 1:30 pm.

Hawaiian quilt making is also taught at Kwilts 'n Koa, 1126 12th Ave. (between Harding and Waialae aves. in Kaimuki), Honolulu (tel. 808/735-2300; www.kwiltsnkoa.com). Call for class information and times.

If you've ever wanted to learn the hula, the Waikiki Community Center, 310 Paoakalani Ave. (Ewa side of the street between Ala Wai Blvd. and Kuhio Ave.), Honolulu (tel. 808/923-1802; www.waikikicommunitycenter.org), offers "drop-in" beginner hula classes every Monday at 9am; the cost is $7.

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