Kayaking Kauai

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Kauai is made for kayaking. You can take the Huleia River into Huleia National Wildlife Refuge (located along the eastern portion of Huleia Stream, where it flows into Nawiliwili Bay). It's the last stand for Kauai's endangered birds, and the only way to see it is by kayak. The adventurous can head to the Na Pali Coast, featuring majestic cliffs, empty beaches, open-ocean conditions, and monster waves. Or you can just paddle around Hanalei Bay.

Kayak Kauai Outbound, a mile past Hanalei Bridge on Highway 560, in Hanalei (tel. 800/437-3507 or 808/826-9844; www.kayakkauai.com), has a range of tours for independent souls. The shop's experts will be happy to take you on a guided kayaking trip or to tell you where to go on your own. Equipment rental starts at $28 for a one-person kayak and $52 for a two-person ocean kayak per day. Kayak lessons are $50 per person per hour. Tours (some including snacks) start at $115 per person and include transportation and lunch for the all-day excursion. Kayak Kauai also has its own private dock (the only one on Kauai) for launching kayaks and canoes.

Rick Haviland, who gained fame after he was mentioned in Paul Theroux's book The Happy Isles of Oceania, is the owner of Outfitters Kauai, 2827A Poipu Rd. (at Poipu Plaza, a small five-shop mall before the road forks to Poipu/Spouting Horn), Poipu (tel. 888/742-9887 or 808/742-9667; www.outfitterskauai.com), which offers several kayaking tours. A full-day trip along the entire Na Pali Coast (summer only) costs $185 per person and includes a guide, lunch, drinks, and equipment. Another kayak tour takes you up a jungle stream and involves a short hike to waterfalls and a swimming hole; it's $94 (children, ages 5?14, $72) including lunch, snacks, and drinks. Outfitters Kauai also rents river kayaks by the day ($40).

In the winter, mid-September to mid-May, Outfitters Kauai has launched a new South Shore Sea Kayak Tour. This 8-mile tour, from Poipu to Port Allen, lets you explore secluded bays and beaches that you can only get to by the sea. Along the way, the guided tour stops for coffee and snacks and later for lunch. This fabulous tour is not for everyone; if you get seasick, you might want to reconsider. Also, the paddling is moderately strenuous and not appropriate for kids under 12. But those adventurous souls, who are somewhat fit and love exploring, will be talking about this tour for a long time. Cost is $129 for adults and $105 for kids ages 12 to 14.

The cheapest place to rent kayaks is the Activity Warehouse, 788 Kuhio Hwy. (across from McDonald's), Kapaa (tel. 808/822-4000), where a one-person kayak goes for $10 a day and a two-person kayak is $15. You can also rent from Kauai Water Ski & Surf Co., Kinipopo Shopping Village, 4-356 Kuhio Hwy. (on the ocean side), Kapaa (tel. 808/822-3574); or Pedal [']n Paddle, Ching Young Village Shopping Center, Hanalei (tel. 808/826-9069; pedalnpaddle.com).

Paddling Into Huleia National Wildlife Refuge -- Ride the Huleia River through Kauai's 240-acre Huleia National Wildlife Refuge, the last stand of Kauai's endangered birds, with True Blue, Nawiliwili Harbor (tel. 888/245-1707 or 808/245-9662; www.kauaifun.com). You paddle up the picturesque Huleia (which appeared in Raiders of the Lost Ark and the remake of King Kong) under sheer pinnacles that open into valleys full of lush tropical plants, bright flowers, and hanging vines. Look for great blue herons and Hawaiian gallinules taking wing. The 4 1/2-hour voyage, which starts at Nawiliwili Harbor, is a great trip for all -- but especially for movie buffs, birders, and great adventurers under 12. It's even safe for nonswimmers. Wear a swimsuit, T-shirt, and boat shoes. The cost is $89 for adults, $36 for children 8 to 12. The prices include a picnic snack, juice, kayak, life vest, and guide services.