
As if, in this economy, you didn’t have enough reasons to feel grumpy about staying home to save money, now comes “Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two” (Graphic Arts Press, $35) to a coffee table near you.
In these pages, behold Death Valley’s Furnace Creek Inn, Hawaii’s Volcano House, Alaska’s Camp Denali and seven other memorable outdoorsy lodgings, all west of Denver, in historic black-and-white and contemporary color.
The author is Christine Barnes, who has produced three other volumes on memorable lodges of North America, with considerable help from photographers Fred Pflughoft and David Morris. The book is companion to an ongoing PBS series on park lodges. (Four of the photos from the book are in this post. As the fine print reveals, two of the 10 lodgings in the book are actually sites in Oregon national forests, not national parks.)

While other park appreciators pause to sniff the flowers or watch the waterfalls, Barnes is busy nosing around stone fireplaces, tracing the rail delivery of iron roofing, parsing construction memos from the 1920s. In fact, architects and engineers may savor certain passages more than casual readers will. But there are always the pictures to rely upon — 190 of them in 176 pages — and the author’s enthusiasm is never in doubt.

“Museums with beds,” she calls the lodges. Barnes also throws light on the exasperating job of a park lodge architect: You’re supposed to produce something beautiful, but in no way compromise the natural beauty surrounding your site. You’re working for the government on land owned by the taxpayers, but many of these enterprises wind up charging more than $300 nightly and competing for guests with some of the grandest hotels on Earth.

Barnes puts buildings places into three categories: Grand Resorts, Classic Lake Lodges and New Visions (which takes in everything built since 1940). Here, gleaned from her pages, are four things I didn’t know before about these places:
1. When the Great Depression hit in 1929, visits to Yellowstone National Park began to slump, and the Lake Hotel there was shuttered from 1933 to 1936.
2. Death Valley’s Furnace Creek Inn opened in 1927. But Death Valley wasn’t declared a national monument until six years later. And it wasn’t declared a national park until 1994.
3. In 1926, after a fire destroyed an earlier building in Olympic National Forest in Washington, a crew of about 44 men built the Lake Quinault Lodge from the ground up in just 53 summer days.
4. The white-walled, red-roofed Stanley Hotel, in Estes Park, Colo., neighboring Rocky Mountain National Park, is the lonely mountain retreat that inspired Stephen King (then a Colorado resident) to write “The Shining.” Though the Stanley wasn’t used in director Stanley Kubrick’s movie version, a later TV miniseries did shoot at the site of King’s inspiration.
— Christopher Reynolds/Los Angeles Times
[Photos: "Great Lodges of the National Parks, Volume Two"]
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November 4th, 2008 at 3:32 am
The unity with nature. Interestingly, both living in such homes? We - the people of mega-cities such does not understand, we can only envy.
November 4th, 2008 at 2:30 pm
The interiors of The Shining were filmed at the Stanley Hotel. But the exterior was shot at Timberline Lodge, which was featured in Christine Barne’s Great Lodges of the National Parks, vol. 1.
November 4th, 2008 at 3:45 pm
That’s absolutely right about the exteriors: Timerline Lodge, on Mount Hood in Oregon. About the interiors in “The Shining,” Barnes writes that they were filmed “on a soundstage in England.” The imdb listing for the movie seems to back that up. Kubrick fiends, anything to add?
December 11th, 2008 at 8:40 am
It feels haunted to me, or at least a few dozen more movies should be made of the area. Our huge success to our family famll trip, was finding ideal accomodations to suit seven; and finally a friend turned me on to Estes Park Central They offer an expansive selection of Estes Park Vacation Rentals. It made our trip to see the Elk rutting, incredible. Enjoy!