And I thought I knew Rome

Susan Spano’s Postcards From Rome

I only meant to take a little walk over to the Teatro Colosseo on Via Capo d’Africa to see about “Rewind Rome,” an orientation film based on a new, extremely high-tech digital model of Rome, circa AD 320. The theater was still in the midst of renovation, and I later learned that the film won’t open until late October.

But when I looked up the block I saw the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, older than San Pietro and the home of the popes before Vatican City. I always assumed it was far from the historic center, so I’d never been. What a grievous error.

The ancient basilica, dating from the beginning of Christianity in Rome, was gorgeously reworked in the 17th century by Baroque architect Francesco Borromini. But evidences of the antique church remain in the 13th century apse mosaics and the pure Gothic cloister, one of the most divinely serene spots in Rome. On Monday, Pope Benedict XVI convened members of the diocese of Rome at the basilica.

So imagine the jolt I got afterward as I walked toward Via Cavour, where Rome’s Gay Pride parade was going by. Among the participants were the Gruppo Alternativo Motociclisti and the Rome Leather Club. Rock music blared, but when 6 p.m. struck I could still hear church bells.

That’s Rome all over.

–Susan Spano, Los Angeles Times Staff Writer

[Photo: Pope Benedict XVI convenes a session Monday in the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano in Rome, by Osservatore Romano/EPA.]

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This entry was posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2008 at 9:45 am by Susan Spano and is filed under Europe, Italy. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a comment. Pinging is currently not allowed.