
Jack Kerouac and Hunter Thompson hit the road decades ago, each with little more than a car, a suitcase full of clothes and presumably another suitcase stocked with some fairly potent narcotics.
I will embark on a similar journey next week from New York to Los Angeles. In place of the copious amounts of drugs, however, I will be packing a laptop and an Internet-connected cellphone that will aid me in discovering this expansive nation, with its diverse inhabitants and culture.
As an amateur rock musician and enthusiastic consumer of such, music will be my guide. No, scratch that. How about you be my guide? To provide travel tips, send e-mails to mark.milian@latimes.com, leave comments on this blog or, for those on Twitter, send tweets to @mmilian.
I will post updates to the Daily Travel & Deal blog, snap photos of the scenery and Twitter my progress. Plus, of course, credit readers when I visit a place they suggested. Then I’ll write a story for the Los Angeles Times Travel Section about the trip.
Thanks to the ubiquity of wireless technology (well, we’ll see what happens deep in the countryside), I’ll be able to stay perpetually connected with readers and vice versa.
Beyond a rough outline of cities to stop in, I’m relying on you to show me the way. An iPhone will help me get from place to place, and your suggestions will determine where I go in each city.
Know of a good club in Chicago? Does the next Bob Dylan have a residency at a Brooklyn bar? Gearing up for a big post-Fourth of July concert in L.A.?
This excursion will mark my transition from intern to full-time journalist with the Los Angeles Times. How that voyage develops depends largely on you.
Itinerary:

New York (6/22)
Washington, D.C.
Cleveland
Detroit
Chicago
Nashville
Montgomery, Ala.
New Orleans
Houston
Austin
El Paso, Texas
Albuquerque
Las Vegas
Los Angeles (7/5)
— Mark Milian, Los Angeles Times staff writer
[Photo: Mark Milian with his car and tools for the road. Credit: Mark Milian/Los Angeles Times]
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June 17th, 2009 at 11:05 am
Mark,
Make sure you cruise through louisville kentucky, home of the derby, H&B baseball museum, and we have a wide variety of local music talent from Bluegrass to the Blues, with some type of music festival every weekend. We are also home of Abbey Road on the River. This is the biggest Beatles music fest in the World. You could be passing through during Forecastle, a music fest featuring the Black Crowes, and several indie bands. Big local talent is Scary Uncle, P.S. Willy, and Big Black Cadillac. Your trip would not be complete without this stop.
June 17th, 2009 at 2:47 pm
When you get ready to leave Austin for El Paso, ping me.
Our ranch is just off of I-10, a few hours out of Austin. We’d like for you to pull over for a cup of coffee or a meal!!!
June 17th, 2009 at 5:52 pm
Who cares? Seriously.
June 18th, 2009 at 1:11 am
Go see the Chatanooga Choo Choo.
I just got this from http://www.chocho.com - Chattanooga, Tenn. (November 2008) - The famous Chattanooga Choo Choo, one of Chattanooga’s oldest and most well-known attractions, will celebrate 100 years in 2009. A 100th anniversary party is definitely cause for a special celebration. From Dec. 1, 2008 - Dec. 1, 2009, the Chattanooga Choo Choo will commemorate this milestone with overnight packages, events, parties, keepsake souvenirs and much more.
Enjoy the trip!
Richard
June 18th, 2009 at 4:08 am
Houston…where to start? Go to Star Pizza for some amazing pizza and great atmosphere. Try 24 hour Mexican Food after hitting up a club at Chacho’s on Westheimer. Be prepared for big portions and nice people whereever you go…
June 18th, 2009 at 4:09 am
Oh–and Austin, for good food and good music go to Stubb’s BBQ. Great atmosphere there as well.
June 18th, 2009 at 6:48 am
Mark,
I guess this goes without saying but for Cleveland: Rock and Roll Hall of fame!!
Happy trails and looking forward to seeing pics!
June 18th, 2009 at 8:34 am
check out little italy area in cleveland - mayfield road
June 18th, 2009 at 8:43 am
Geno’s East for Pizza in Chicago
June 18th, 2009 at 8:57 am
Hannibal, Missouri - Mark Twain’s hometown - is one of my favorite places in this entire country and I’ve seen most of it by car. The whole town is a tribute and museum of all things Twain and Tom Sawyer. You can even explore the actual Indian Caves. If you are travelling N.Y. to New Orleans, you can find room for Hannibal.
June 18th, 2009 at 9:03 am
Hello.
Do not forget to a must:
Visit San Antonio river walk, across the street from The Alamo.
Please let us know if you do not think that San Antonio is ONE of a kind USA City.
June 18th, 2009 at 9:55 am
How about the home of the G-20 Summit in September, Pittsburgh, PA? as a stop between DC and Cleveland. A visit here could include a trip up a 19th century incline on Mt. Washington, a Pirates ball game at the beautiful PNC Park, or simply a Primanti Bros. sandwich - complete with fries and coleslaw on the sandwich. All in all, my adopted home town has lots to offer visitors and a variety of very scenic photo spots (like Point State Park, complete with fountain and the “three rivers”).
June 18th, 2009 at 10:39 am
Mark - Time to get away from the big cities. As you head north from El Paso towards Albuquerque, turn west on U.S. 60 at Socorro for a short detour. Drive through Magdalena and take the self-guided tour at the Very Large Array (radio telescopes; remember “Contact”?) Continue west to Quemado, then head north on NM 63 and NM 117 to I-40 and head east towards Albuquerque. But don’t go to Abuquerque (it’s just another city) until you visit Acoma Pueblo (Sky City).
If you decide to not do the Socorro - VLA - Quemado detour, got to Acoma Pueblo as you head west on I-40 from Albuquerque. From Acoma, go to Grants, turn south on NM 53 (I think), and go to El Morro. El Morro is where the early explorers (think very early Spanish) inscribed their names on the sandstone bluff. El Morro is a National Monument with a very nice visitor’s center. Spend some time, take the mile or so hike up to the top of the bluff. Avoid cities!
Regards, John
June 18th, 2009 at 12:09 pm
Mark,
Skipping Memphis for Nashville? Give me a break. Nashville’s corporate, pop-crossover music connection is an absolute miss on this trip. The only real country music left in the US is in Texas. Skip Nashville and head to Memphis before Montgomery. See Graceland, Stax (home of Otis Redding, Booker T & the MG’s, Isaac Hayes), Sun Studio (Elvis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, BB King, Howlin’ Wolf) and an endless number of other sites in this area that would be paramount to achieving this trip’s purpose.
Hit up Po Monkey’s Lounge in Cleveland, Mississippi, or one of a number of other Delta haunts for some blues baptism. You could drop by this event too. It looks like it would fit into your travel schedule - http://hillcountrypicnic.wordpress.com/
You won’t get anything like that in or around Nashville!
Please feel free to contact me personally if I can be of any help steering you in the right direction on this journey. As a former print journalist, lifelong Memphian and music/food enthusiast, I can promise you that a detour to our fair city would be more appropriate for this project. It would be a shame for you to miss out on the rich music history that the Delta and Memphis have to offer as you compile this perfect setlist for a cross country drive.
Best regards and safe travels,
John Scruggs
June 18th, 2009 at 1:22 pm
When in the death valey area between Las Vegas and LA….be sure to check out Titus Canyon road.First head to Beatty NV. This incredible 27 mile drive covers a wide range of interests, from geology to Native American petroglyphs to an old mining town. If you are very lucky, you may see some desert bighorn sheep. Start off outside of the park in Nevada and drive one way back into the park. This route takes you through some of the most interesting geology in the park. After about 15 miles, you will come to the ghost town of Leadville, started mostly on hype. Leadville last only about two years, but for mining buffs, it is a great example with a number of intact buildings. The last 4 miles of the drive take you through the narrows of Titus Canyon. The rock walls are scoured by flash floods, and rise hundreds of feet high, but are less than 20 feet wide in some places.
To get to Titus Canyon you first have to leave the park, headed east towards Beatty, Nevada. After you cross over the boarder into Nevada, it is almost 3 miles to the turn off for Titus Canyon on the left hand side of the road. This is a dirt road, and high clearance vehicles are needed.
http://www.desertusa.com/mag99/may/stories/titus.html
June 18th, 2009 at 1:27 pm
Chicago club: Kingston Mines. By far the BEST blues venue in Chicago, take a look at their website: kingstonmines.com
Enjoy your drive!
June 18th, 2009 at 2:02 pm
dude, you’re going to some seriously lame cities… New Orleans is probably the only worthwhile one there. You’ll find this out shortly. You’re gonna have a really boring trip. Next time don’t have AAA map your route! Bummer for you!
June 18th, 2009 at 2:19 pm
As you come through Fort Stockton, TX (from Austin to El Paso) you must stop and eat at Mi Casita. They make EVERYTHING (even the chips) from scratch. Start with their Fiesta Dip, then order whatever you want off of their menu, it’s all good. You can bring your own ice chest full of beer in with you.
If you pass through at b’fast stop and eat at the Comanche Springs Truck Stop. Two eggs, home fries, biscuits and gravy and sausage for just $5.99!!!
E-mail me whenever you are passing by and I’ll come meet you there. Might even touch off some celebratory gunfire.
June 18th, 2009 at 2:55 pm
Hey , I have an old VW diesel just sitting here that you can have for the journey. Will probably save you like a thousand bucks in fuel charges.. and if you aren’t concerned about that, well, it will probably save us all about 5 tonnes of carbon monoxide.
Thanks boss
June 18th, 2009 at 3:15 pm
sounds like an ambitious and enjoyable road trip - i would highly suggest you stop through Washington DC to check out a sweet show! http://vinyldistrict.blogspot.com/ This blog has written up all three bands this week to prepare the district for this rad show! mittenfields + we were pirates + vox pop @ black cat on tues | june 23rd | 9pm | $8 | all ages!!!!! hope to see you there!
dave
June 18th, 2009 at 5:10 pm
Great trip!
I hope there is still a paper, and a job for you when you get to LA
Best of luck
June 18th, 2009 at 7:41 pm
The Smokies
Pottsvile Pennsylvania, home of Yuengling Beer
White Sands New Mexico, is a must
Zion National Park is not far from Vegas.
June 18th, 2009 at 8:21 pm
While in Austin, if you like pubs, go to Maggie Mae’s. It’s a 6th St. institution…
June 18th, 2009 at 9:13 pm
Their are many “driveable” sections of the original Route 66 here in Illinois. Why not get your “kicks” on ROUTE 66??
June 18th, 2009 at 9:38 pm
Sure, there are more places to stop if you go south once you hit Chicago. But not taking the Denver-Utah-LV route will mean you miss some of the most incredible scenery in the US.
Also, if you can spare a 90 mile detour north once you hit Chicago, swing through Milwaukee. Summerfest - the world’s largest music festival - is right about the same time you would be in Chicago.
June 19th, 2009 at 5:29 am
Mark:
I echo George’s recommendation - drop by Louisville, KY. Make sure you visit the Mohammed Ali Museum, one of the best in the country.
Also, when in New Mexico, visit Santa Fe, see the town square and wander Canyon Road. Not to far away along the I-25 is White Sands - Beautiful.
Drive safely,
Dave W.
Ottawa, Ontario
June 19th, 2009 at 5:55 am
If you’re going through New Mexico, stop and see Sky City/The Pueblo at Acoma. It’s worth the $20 ticket to see one of the oldest continuous native communities in North America.
June 19th, 2009 at 10:09 am
When you head west out of Albuquerque, turn south at Grants and head to Bandera Ice Cave and El Morro National Monument. Cool, green ancient ice in the former. At the later, inscriptions by Spanish explorers who passed this way before you (1620 AD).-Jim
June 19th, 2009 at 11:18 am
I agree with Raul. And I must add that real America is not near the interstate. And forgoing narcotics for technology? Wow. That’s cool.
June 19th, 2009 at 11:51 am
Agree with Chris about Kingston Mines in Chicago. I was just out there in April and that place rocks. Say hi to Charlie Love for me.
Also, don’t avoid Nashville. That’s a great fun city, despite the Memphis chamber of commerce comments earlier. So what if it is ‘corporate’? I was there for four nights last year and had one of the best times of my life.
Check the Jack Daniels tour in nearby Lynchburg if you can.
June 19th, 2009 at 1:51 pm
Mark,
From ABQ, swing north through Santa Fe, Los Alamos, then around to Taos and up into southern Colorado. Durango is great in the summer. Drive on into Utah (Zion / Bryce), see the North Rim, THEN head down into Las Vegas. The NM-AZ desert is a fine place (Gallup! Winslow!!), but the Sangre de Cristo and southern Rockies is where its at.
June 19th, 2009 at 2:03 pm
Kidding me right? Let’s blog about driving across the country? How about give your readers back their local transportation coverage and not this fluffy pile of fill.
June 19th, 2009 at 3:40 pm
You’ve simply GOT to see Monument Valley, though the middle of summer isn’t really the best time… Arches National park, Bryce canyon, yeah, I’ll check in once you’re on the right side of the Mississippi!
June 20th, 2009 at 8:31 am
Take the old Spanish Trail route from Albequerque to Las Vegas. Stop at Mountain Meadows in Utah for an important lesson in history every American should have. You can decompress from that by enjoying Snow Canyon and other fantastic sights on your way to the resort town of St. George, where the food is good and the lodging reasonable. Maybe a side trip to Zion National Park?
June 20th, 2009 at 11:06 am
when you stop in DC tell me, I will be your tour guide. hahahaha. Jk. lets hang out.
June 22nd, 2009 at 7:11 am
On the road from New Orleans to Austin, don’t just go past all the little stands on the side of the road (yes, the side of the road - you’re going to have to get off the interstate. Hop on 90 when you get through Beaumont, and it will be easier to get around the Beltway and avoid Houston traffic - then take 290 into Austin). Pull over, buy some jams, fruit butters and some pecans in 10 pound bags. Trust me, you won’t regret it.
Also, before you leave New Orleans: you must, must, MUST go to Willie Mae’s Scotch House in the Treme for fried chicken that will change your life. People don’t normally think of non-seafood dishes in NOLA, but this stuff is amazing (although it may knock a year or two off your life). Worth the nap you’ll need afterwards.
Enjoy the drive!
June 22nd, 2009 at 7:13 am
Mark, one of the most famous westward routes was US 66, going from Chicago to LA. It was so famous, it was nicknamed “The Mother Road.” Instead of taking I-57 from Chicago southward, at least use I-55, which follows the old route from Chicago to St. Louis.
June 22nd, 2009 at 7:14 am
Not sure when you’ll get to Chicago but if its the end of this week, you definitely want to check out Taste of Chicago…gluttonfest as I like to call it…they always have a fair amount of music there.
A side trip would be 90 miles north to Milwaukee, home of Summerfest…another place of good music and food (right on Lake Michigan as well!!)
http://tinyurl.com/4ntnhv (Taste of Chicago)
http://www.summerfest.com/
June 22nd, 2009 at 9:32 am
Your best route from Chicago to Nashville is by I-57 through Urbana-Champign, through Mt. Vernon, and south of Marion get off I-57 onto I-24 to Paducah, Ky and Nashvill. Enjoy the Rend Lake and the hills of southern Illinois.
stoney
June 22nd, 2009 at 10:08 am
Hi Mark,
This is a great idea–I’ll be keeping track of your updates. I have one recommendation: don’t miss the chance to visit Frank Lloyd Wright’s amazing Unity Temple, in Oak Park, IL, just outside of Chicago. This is one of the most famous and influential buildings in the world, and it was just named to the list of America’s 11 Most Endangered Historic Places. It is celebrating its 100th anniversary this fall. Its radical design, beautiful spaces and light made it an icon of modernity as soon as it was built, and today it is considered one of the most important works of architecture in the world. You can tour the building 7 days a week. It’s a “don’t miss.”
June 22nd, 2009 at 10:51 am
Jack,
Best of luck on your trip. I have hopes to take a similar trip in the not too distant future.
When you leave Chicago, I’d suggest putting Counting Crows, August and Everything After on for the next leg of driving.
Take Care,
Chris
June 22nd, 2009 at 11:01 am
You will love it! We did the tour from San Francisco to the East Coast and back via Texas, Arizona 2 years ago. I am still amazed about the beauty of America. Have fun, http://grandamericantour.blogspot.com/
June 22nd, 2009 at 11:01 am
You will love it! We did the tour from San Francisco to the East Coast and back via Texas, Arizona 2 years ago. I am still amazed about the beauty of America. Have fun, http://grandamericantour.blogspot.com/
@maritar
June 22nd, 2009 at 11:15 am
I echo the “who cares” sentiment.
June 22nd, 2009 at 11:17 am
If you haven’t already passed through Cleveland, stop by the Spitfire (1539 W. 117th St) for a beer. It’s a total dive punk bar, the jukebox rules and the beer is cheap.
I live in Chicago and there are tons of really cool places to check out while in town. Make sure you take a cruise up Lakeshore Drive (if you’re interested in taking a little longer drive, Rt 41 branches off the expressway and is a nice drive through neighborhoods and along the lake all the way from around Hammond, IN on up into Chicago). Wendella offers cheap boat tours if you’re looking for something neat and touristy. Take a rest and have a drink on the 95th floor of the Hancock Building and see the best views of the city. If you hit town on 6/24, The Blind Staggers (check ‘em on myspace) are playing at the Beat Kitchen. Tell ‘em I sent ya.
June 22nd, 2009 at 11:23 am
My personal picks for Chicago:
1) Go to Millennium Park and take your picture with CLOUDGATE which we all call “The Bean”
2) Explore the Art Institute of Chicago, especially the Impressionist Paintings
3) Go on the Architectural River Cruise
4) Go to the top of The Hancock Observatory or the Sears Tower Skydeck. GREAT VIEWS!
5) Rent a bike and head north on the lakefront bike path
6) See a game at or take tour of Wrigley Field (2nd oldest ballpark in the MLB)
7) Chicago food: Deep-dish pizza from Giordano’s or Gino’s East, Italian Beef Sandwich (ask for it wet) from Portillo’s, Chicago-style hot dog from Portillo’s
8) Ride the Brown line of the “L” to see more of the neighborhoods as this line is all above ground.
9) Take a rest on the beach at either Oak Street Beach or North Avenue Beach.
10) Do a Chicago Greeter tour (FREE) of Hyde Park and check out Obama’s neighborhood (with a house walk-by).
June 22nd, 2009 at 11:42 am
For Austin, your best friend will be The Austin Chronicle (web and print).
Free in-stores (and free Shiner beer) at Waterloo Records; check their page for dates and times.
Best sound system in town is at Antone’s.
Best small club vibe is at The Continental Club on South Congress. You can hit up Guerro’s across the street for some Tex-Mex.
For a beer (beers?), you can’t go wrong at The Ginger Man, either for selection or laid back setting.
Stubb’s is ok for BBQ, but better for music. Rudy’s, Ruby’s, and Salt Lick are better BBQ.
Make a trip to Red River: Emo’s and Club De Ville.
Just steer clear of any of those lame places the “Real World” kids went to.
June 22nd, 2009 at 4:28 pm
Stay away from the Taste of Chicago…way overrated and too expensive. For REAL Chicago thin crust pizza, gotta go to Vito & Nick’s at 85th and Pulaski Rd. It was featured on the Food Network. hasn’t changed in 45 years.
June 22nd, 2009 at 8:39 pm
Sounds like your more into the party scene. If you need a break and have the heart of a child and love to play with technology, I suggest you stop at the SciTech children’s museum in Aurora. http://scitech.mus.il.us/
June 23rd, 2009 at 8:34 am
I’m goin from Boston to New Orleans in Kerouacian August.
June 23rd, 2009 at 10:50 am
Pull a small detour in Southern Illinois and visit Carbondale, home of Southern Illinois University and Giant City State Park. This will vanquish any notion you have about Illinois being flat. And plug in Steve Goodman’s City of New Orleans on the iPod for the trip north to Chicago.
June 29th, 2009 at 12:20 pm
Have a safe and fun trip! When finally in Los Angeles, travel to Melrose and La Brea ave and treat yourself to a great Pink’s Hot Dog or maybe two!!
June 30th, 2009 at 9:39 am
Chicago is the greatest place to be… make sure you eat Chicago style deep dish pizza. Giordano’s is one of those… great taste if you like cheese.
Chicago downtown is awesome…. visit Millennium park, Museum and Buckingham fountain.
June 30th, 2009 at 9:41 am
Good luck for your trip. I am from Chicago. You might want to try traditional Chicago style deep dish pizza. Also, as part of the nightlife and attraction, you might want to visit Millennium park, Buckingham fountain and downtown Chicago. Have a safe trip.