TRAVEL FEATURES | EAST COAST
Knocking New York down to size
A first-timer's guide to the Big Apple.
Editor's note: Amanda Joyce moved to New York from Hinsdale four years ago.
To an outsider, any city can be intimidating. Many Downstaters dread the thought of venturing into Chicago, so they don't. And what a shame, because especially at this time of year, there's no place like it.
Well, the same is true of Midwesterners who never overcome New York City's intimidation factor.
But take heart, for New York is nothing to fear. For better or worse, the city bears little resemblance to the crime-laden hovel so vivid in the imaginations of those who remember 1970s New York. It's not all gritty concrete and impersonal skyscrapers.
The city is famous for its embarrassment of riches in restaurants, theaters, bars, museums and parks. Yet with so much to see and do and hear, perhaps the most overwhelming thing is deciding where to start. Don't be paralyzed by indecision.
What follows are simple highlights--a first-timer's guide--designed to show you the best, the quirky and the special spots cherished by some very tough critics: New Yorkers. Bear in mind that unless you are traveling with a jet pack and the ability to function on a mere two hours of sleep, you will not be able to see and do everything that you want. So take notes and you'll have enough sights, restaurants, galleries and theaters to keep you coming back again and again. And bring comfortable shoes. New Yorkers walk a lot.
Once you've made it to the island that is Manhattan (see related story), the heart of the city, just remember the golden rule among New Yorkers: Be aware of your surroundings. Manhattan is a tight squeeze compared with Chicago. Be conscious of the space you occupy while on the sidewalk, subway car or deli line. Nothing perturbs a New Yorker more than a clueless tourist lollygagging in the way.
The park, with coffee to go
Mama always said that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. Start it off right with coffee and a pastry in Central Park. Walk, taxi or subway it to Columbus Circle at the southwest corner of the park. The glittering towers of the Time Warner Center beckon with multimillion-dollar views and mall shops. (The Chicago parallel is Water Tower Place.)
Stock up on buttery croissants and coffee from Bouchon Bakery and take your picnic to one of the most celebrated green spaces in the country. As you enter off of Columbus Circle, take a right and head north along the main road to Sheep's Meadow and settle in on the pet-free lawn, or find a bench and watch the runners and bikers sweat through daily workouts.
After breakfast, wander east through the park and emerge at 79th Street and 5th Avenue. Take in the majestic Metropolitan Museum of Art's architecture. Browse the sidewalk vendors who set up card tables laden with original sketches, watercolors and photography. Once inside, it is easy to while away the hours at the Met (www.met museum.org) among the newly refurbished Greek and Roman galleries, the patriotic 19th Century American oil paintings or the medieval art.
If you simply cannot get enough of the Met, and medieval art is of special interest, save your receipt and your entrance badge and take the A train to Ft. Tyron Park in the "nosebleed" section of upper Manhattan. You will be rewarded with stunning views of the Hudson River, the gorgeously landscaped garden of Ft. Tyron Park as well as complimentary entry to the Met's sister location, know as The Cloisters ( www.metmuseum.org/cloisters). The Cloisters is an eerily accurate re-creation of a medieval cloister.
Lunchtime
Walk east after leaving the Met to Lexington Avenue between 73rd and 74th Streets and you'll find yourself in the heart of the iconic Upper East Side, not to mention the fact that you'll be near the decadent treats of a French bistro and pastry shop known as Payard ( www.payard.com). Sandwiches and salads range between $10 and $15, while the prix fixe comes in on the rich side at just over $30.
The stroll from the museum should provide ample opportunity to ogle some of the toniest real estate in the city as well. Pay special attention to the stunning townhouses on the side streets and the massive valley of co-op buildings that lines Park Avenue. This is Mayor Michael Bloomberg's 'hood.
If you've had your fill of French fare, and Payard seems to be a bit caloric, an alternate lunch spot is E.A.T., the well-loved neighborhood eatery and local high-end grocery store chainlet. Foodies adore the artisinal breads and fresh-roasted coffee beans. Located at 1064 Madison Ave., between 80th and 81st Street, the cafe is attached to a market where you can pick up delicious goodies to stock up your hotel's mini-bar or to take home as beautiful souvenirs.
Go shopping
Post-lunch shopping is easy to come by on the Upper East Side. The shops range from small but extremely upscale mom-and-pop footwear boutiques to larger flagship outposts for any and every luxury fashion brand. One locally loved highlight is Zitomer (969 Madison Ave.; www.zitomer.com). Zitomer is an unabashed temple to personal grooming and primping, with trendy lingerie, mounds of bath and beauty products, as well as unique children's clothing and toys to boot.
Bardith Ltd. (72nd Street and Madison Avenue; www.bardithltd.com) is an intriguing stop for its breathtaking inventory of 18th Century blue and white Dutch Delft creamware. Be sure to leave any clumsy travel companions on the sidewalk.
To round out the mix, venture over to the slightly less posh 3rd Avenue for a peek at the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center Thrift Shop (1440 3rd Ave., near 81st Street). Aside from being a popular cause among the ladies who lunch, the charity shop is a treasure trove of designer castoffs.
To cap it all off
As evening approaches and your feet need a break, make your way to the subway station at 86th Street and Lexington Avenue. Take the 4 express train downtown to the Bowling Green stop and follow the signs for the Staten Island Ferry on South Street. Be sure to time this around sunset because the views of the city skyline from the New York Harbor as the sun dips below the horizon are stunning.
The ferry is free, so treat yourself to a plastic cup of wine or a beer. (If it is a weekday, do be mindful of tired commuters who just want to get home.)
Settle in and soak in the views of Manhattan, Brooklyn and New Jersey, not to mention the Statue of Liberty. With views like this, you shouldn't need to stand in line an hour or more for the statue ferry.
Once revived from your lovely sunset cruise, walk back to the subway (or grab a cab) and get thee to Soho. (Hint: You can get on the N, R, or W train at Whitehall/South Ferry. Take it uptown to the Prince Street Station and you'll be in the heart of Soho.)
Soho used to be gritty and full of artist lofts, but now there is Prada and an Apple store. If you simply cannot get enough shopping, this is your spot. Many New Yorkers do their best to avoid Soho during the daytime on Saturdays and Sundays. In the evening, however, the neighborhood is less frenetic as swanky diners and drinkers emerge.
In a city with as many eateries as New York, selecting a dinner destination can become quite complicated. If you want to do some independent research, www.yelp.com or the restaurant section on www.nymag.com are super-useful. One of my favorites is a taco-truck style Mexican joint called L'Esquina. From the Prince Street subway, walk east on Prince to Lafayette Street. Go south on Lafayette two blocks to Kenmare Street. There will be a large Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams store in a small square. You cannot miss L'Esquina. Look for the neon sign that reads "Corner Deli."
If the weather is nice, stand in line to order and then grab a sidewalk table to enjoy your tacos or quesadillas with a side of beans and an ice-cold, home-made horchata. If standing on the sidewalk isn't your style, you can walk in to the "taco truck." The cooks and the griddle will be on your left, with extra counter seating on your right. Straight ahead is a completely vague and unmarked "entrance" to the swankier restaurant. It looks like a set of stairs that might lead to an "employees only" kitchen area. It isn't. This is the secret entrance to the swankier sit-down brasserie. The prices are steeper, of course, but you get table service, and there is a breathtakingly extensive tequila menu.
The best thing to round out your whirlwind day is a nighttime jaunt up to the top of Rockefeller Center ( www.topoftherocknyc.com). The last elevator up is at 11 p.m., but you can linger until midnight. (Subway hint: take the F or the V train from the Broadway/Lafayette stop near Houston to the Rockefeller Center stop at 53rd Street.) While lines for the Empire State can stretch around the block, you must buy a ticket with a designated time for Top of the Rock. Don't feel bad about skipping the Empire State Building. Think about it: When you are on top of the Empire State Building, you cannot see the Empire State Building. Not so at Rockefeller Center. The dizzying panorama includes spectacular views of the iconic building.
No visit to New York could possibly be complete without a bagel. Set aside any carb phobia you may have and indulge. Jerry Seinfeld may love H&H Bagels on the Upper West Side, but I am convinced that the absolute best bagel is found at Hudson Bagel on Hudson Street near Christopher Street in the West Village. The closest subway stop is the 1 train stop at Christopher. When you get off the train, just stay on Christopher and walk west two blocks to Hudson. Take a right on Hudson, meaning north, and the bagel shop will be a couple of businesses down, on the east side of the street.
The little shop isn't much to look at, but all of their bagels are made on-site. Don't make the error of asking for your bagel to be toasted. They won't. Rather, ask what is hot, and enjoy the chewy, bready goodness (never heavy) on their bench on the sidewalk.
A post-breakfast walk through the winding neighborhood streets of the West Village also is a must. The Village is many New Yorkers' favorite neighborhood. Its smaller scale, quieter, boho vibe is a refreshing foil to the mayhem of Midtown. Walk down Bleecker Street and begin making a list of "to dos" for your next visit.
Details on visiting New York
GETTING THERE
Getting into Manhattan itself can be a bit of a challenge. All of the major airlines, as well as some of the discount operators, fly into metro New York many times a day. Go with whomever gives you the best price, and don't worry about which airport you fly into. Each has its merits.
LaGuardia isn't the prettiest airport you'll ever see. In fact, it is slightly Third World-esque, but it is closer to the city and will be a less expensive cab ride. JFK is flashier and more international.
Ignore anyone asking you if you need a ride into the city at either airport and opt for the legal, marked cabs. Follow the signs at baggage claim for the taxi stands and wait your turn.
Newark is an unsung option because it is in New Jersey. The airport is relatively new, clean and you often can find good deals with the airlines that fly there. While cabs from JFK and LaGuardia top out at $45 (excluding tip and tolls), a taxi from Newark is metered and has no limit. It isn't hard for the bill to run anywhere from $75 to $150. Opt for the AirTrain ( www.panynj.gov/airtrain newark) public transport into Penn Station, or call a car service, which sounds like it should be more expensive than a taxi but isn't. (Carmel Taxi & Limousine service at 212-666-6666 or Dial Seven at 212-777-7777.)
AirTrain does offer a connection to the New York City subway system for visitors arriving at JFK, however, the trip is interminably slow as well as slightly unpleasant during very early or very late times of day.
WHERE TO STAY
When it comes to hotels in New York, it's difficult to avoid the juggernaut that is Midtown. The bulk of hotel options are there, but a real New Yorker would find it soulless. Here are other options ranging from the moderate to more upscale:
Abingdon Square Guest House, a B&B atmosphere in the heart of the West Village. (212-243-5384; www.abingdonguesthouse.com). Doubles from $220.
Washington Square Park Hotel, a small, European-feeling hotel in the midst of Greenwich Village, New York University and lower 5th Avenue's co-ops. (212-777-9515; www.wshotel.com). Doubles from $330.
Embassy Suites in Battery Park City, a familiar name in an exceptionally clean neighborhood that abuts the Hudson River and is a stone's throw from jogging paths, gardens, playgrounds and sweeping views of New York Harbor, including the Statue of Liberty. (212-945-0100; www.embassysuites1.hilton .com). Suites for two from $259.
Hotel Giraffe, a fantastic location for getting around the city. It's close to Grand Central Station and isn't too far downtown and isn't Midtown either. And the surrounding Murray Hill streets are leafy and pretty for exploring. (212-685-7700; www.hotelgiraffe.com). Doubles from $290.
The Bowery Hotel, a very new, hip hotel in the heart of New York's nightlife neighborhood. Equally accommodating to rock stars and those who just want a stylish room. ( 212-505-9100; www.theboweryhotel.com). Doubles start at about $550.
Four Seasons, similar to the Embassy Suites, but with Four Seasons luxury and the price to match. (212-758-5700; www.fourseasons.com/newyorkfs). Doubles start at $1,200.
 This hotel, which dates to 1921, has 39 rooms and commanding perch by a big river. |
 A look inside the airline's first Airbus A380. |
Water parks vie to open first U.S. looping water slide
The race is on to see which water park debuts America's first looping water slide — a gravi...
Read more »
Users' Favorites
Taking restless Southern California on vacation
Los Angeles Times e-mail newsletter, delivered every Thursday
wherever it appears.