EUROPE | SOUTHERN ITALY

Recommended country B&Bs in Puglia, Italy

Sample the countryside for an authentic, unforgettable taste of Southern Italy.

By S. Irene Virbila, Los Angeles Times Staff Writer
07:40 PM PST, February 23, 2007

Although Puglia now has its share of luxury resorts complete with golf courses and spas, staying at an agriturismo or B&B in the countryside or the historic center of Lecce will give you a more authentic taste of Puglia. Some, like the famous Il Melograno in Monopoli, are full-scale hotels and expensive; others are more modest and truly familial. Choose one or two as a base for exploring the surrounding region.

MASSERIA IL FRANTOIO

The place: S.S. 16, Kilometer 874, Ostuni (Brindisi), 011-39-0831-330276, www.masseriailfrantoio.it , or e-mail armando @trecolline.it .

The flavor: Well-known agriturismo (pictured above) on a working farm with more than 4,000 olive trees. Rooms are old-fashioned and not very big. Prices are per person, not per room, starting at $105 for adults, including a lavish breakfast spread. In high season, make reservations well in advance. Dinner is $70. Check the website for a list of books about the area.

AGRITURISMO MONTEPAOLO

The place: Contrada Montepaolo, Conversano; 011-39-080-495-5087, www.montepaolo.it .

The flavor: Great for families; moderately priced agriturismo in 16th century two-story stone building with pool and large garden. Ten simple rooms (no air conditioning) and rustic regional cooking from owner Niny Bassi. Doubles start at $103, including breakfast. Dinner, $26 per person.

BORGO SAN MARCO

The place: C. da S. Angelo, 33, Fasano; 011-39-080-439-5757; www.borgosanmarco.it .

The flavor: Perfect for bohemians, a rustic, suite-only agriturismo (shown below) once used by the Knights of Malta as a watchtower and military garrison. Rooms, painted in lush colors, are moderately priced compared to the luxe masserie in Fasano; some can be combined for larger family groups. It has a pool, but only a rudimentary restaurant. Comfortable but not luxurious. Adults starting at $125 per person.

HOTELS

AIA DEL VENTO

The place: 79 Via Locorotondo, Cisternino; 011-39-080-444-8388, www.aiadelvento.it .

Where am I?

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