How to get to Italy's mozzarella hot spots

By Susan Spano
04:55 PM PDT, May 08, 2009

Italy: In the land of mozzarella

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THE BEST WAY

From LAX, Continental, Lufthansa, American, Air France, British, US Airways, United, Delta and KLM offer connecting service (change of planes) to Rome. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $724. To Naples, Lufthansa and British Air offer connecting flights (change of planes) out of LAX. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $794. The excellent A1 Autostrada (a toll superhighway) links Rome to the mozzarella-producing regions of Campania.

Caserta is about 130 miles southeast of Rome and 15 miles from Naples; Paestum-Capaccio is about 190 miles southeast of Rome and 65 miles southeast of Naples.

TELEPHONES

To call the numbers listed below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 39 (the country code for Italy) and the number.

WHERE TO STAY

Caserta is a big town with a Crowne Plaza, www.crowneplaza-caserta.com, and a Novotel, www.novotel.com.

Paestum-Capaccio, with its long beach and nearby mountains, is the more attractive place to stay.

Azienda Agrituristica Seliano, Tenuta Seliano, Paestum, 0828-724-544, www.agriturismoseliano.it, is a lovely old farm and villa near the beach and the Paestum archaeological site, especially welcoming to families. It has rooms decorated with antiques, a swimming pool, a big buffalo herd and a restaurant serving beautifully prepared local fare (by reservation); doubles begin at $100, including breakfast.

ll Granaio dei Casabella, 84 Via Tavernelle, 0828-721-014, www.ilgranaiodeicasabella.com, is a 14-room guest house in an attractively restored old-fashioned farmhouse within walking distance of the Paestum ruins; doubles begin at $135, including breakfast.

Mandetta, 2 Via di Mare, 0828-811-118, www.mandetta.it, is an endearing, family-run budget hotel on the beach with a fabulous restaurant; doubles start around $90, with breakfast.

Schuhmann Strand-Hotel, Via Marittima, 0828-851-151, www.hotelschuhmann.com, is a well-run, modern beach-front hotel with amenities like balconies and satellite television; doubles begin at $90, per person, half-board.

WHERE TO EAT

La Tavernelle, 14 Via Tavernelle, 0828-722-440, is a smart and friendly little wine bar that serves well-prepared local fare; two-course dinner about $40, not including wine.

Museo Bar-Gelateria, 913 Via Magna Graecia, 0828-811-078, is one of the nicest spots near the entrance to the Paestum ruins; light meals about $10.

Nettuno, Zona Archeologica, 0828-811-028, is a fine old Sele Valley institution, right in the middle of the Paestum ruins, with terrace and formal dining room seating; dinner $50 to $60.

TO LEARN MORE

Italian Government Tourist Board in Los Angeles, (310) 820-1898, www.italiantourism.com.