SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA | FAMILY TRAVEL

Malibu is ready for its close-up

Sun seekers, active travelers and celebrity watchers can all find what they're looking for in this quintessential SoCal city.

By Avital Binshtock, Special to the Los Angeles Times
01:25 PM PDT, July 18, 2008

Overview

It's easy to see why Hollywood stars make their homes in Malibu. "It's one of those rare places," says Ron Schafer, a state park superintendent. "It's old-time California with the surfing and the camping."

Indeed, this 27-mile-long city sandwiched between the Santa Monica Mountains and the Pacific Ocean is iconic. Maybe it was "Baywatch," or the fact that it's in Us Weekly every, uh, week. But Malibu has an earthier side. Beyond the seaside glitz, up the rugged canyons, resides a tight-knit community with a small-town mentality amid bobcats, coyotes and craggy mountains.

Age appropriate

The celebs always seem to be out and about toting their little ones, so you can probably sneak a peak at them too.

Too much fun

Malibu Country Mart is a sunny outdoor retail center with a colorful kids' playground -- and one for adults too, with trendy boutiques, galleries, spas, cafes and a picnic area. Look for stars pushing strollers.

Best adventure, or the attraction

Leo Carrillo State Park encompasses many scenic attractions. Foremost among them are the delicate tide pools, where kids delight at finding hermit crabs, slugs and sea anemones. The park, named for a 1950s actor and preservationist, is an active traveler's paradise, with surfing, scuba and hiking on nearby Santa Monica Mountain trails. (Nicholas Flat is best for families).

Keep 'em happy / No museums, Dad!

Tour the historical Adamson House, a Spanish Colonial Revival landmark built in 1929. Its main attraction is the exquisite tiling; nearly every room contains artistic tile work by Malibu Potteries, a business owned by the activist family that lived here. Docents are remarkably knowledgeable, and the view and landscaping are stunning.

Timing is everything

Any time is playtime in Malibu, but in summer, rangers give tours and presentations about the local fauna and flora -- and summer is when the most surfers are out too. The off-season begins in October (which can mean great prices) and winter can get foggy -- but it's the best season to see seals and migrating gray whales.

Avoid the crowds

Paradise Cove is a private beach, which means you have to pay to park there, but also that it's clean and there are far fewer families than on, say, Zuma.

It's also uncrowded in Malibu Creek State Park where, 25 years after "MASH" ended, its outdoor set has been restored and opened to the public. If you're a fan, you'll recognize the chaparral-covered hills, the old ambulance and the camp signpost replica. Originally the archaeological site of a Chumash village, it's a gentle two-mile hike from the park entrance.

Can't miss

Zuma is Malibu's quintessential beach. If you've seen one of those car commercials with the idyllic beach setting (and Point Dume in the background), you've seen Zuma Beach. But experiencing it in person is much better. Two miles of white sand, happy people and great swimming await.

Bargain lodging/dining

Camping at Leo Carrillo State Park is popular. Its affordable campgrounds, nestled in a grove of giant sycamores, allow families to ride bikes, play ball, linger around the fire pit -- and even access the Internet via free Wi-Fi. Make reservations for weekend spots six months in advance.

For indoor lodging, comfortable Casa Malibu Inn on the Beach has dining and other activities within stroller distance. Built in 1949, this was actress Lana Turner's secret getaway. Off-season rates can dip under $100.

Where am I?

Denver or Twin Cities? Can you tell the difference?


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