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Don't call it Joisey. And never, ever, add the adjective "new."

Jersey is an island that plumps up in the English Channel between France and England. It is, of course, surrounded by water, which New Jersey isn't; cow's milk and potatoes are big exports from Jersey, which isn't the case with New Jersey. And the real Jersey shore ... well, let's just say there's no Trump Taj Mahal anywhere near it.

Although it lies closer to France and Normandy (12 miles) than to the south coast of England (about 80 miles to Portsmouth, as the crow flies), Jersey has a decidedly British feel -- the croissants are doughy rather than flaky, the shops more High Street than Boulevard Hausmann, and everybody drives on the left, or is supposed to.

Politically and legislatively, Jersey is rather unique in Europe. With its 90,000 permanent residents, it is a self-governing "bailiwick," not part of the United Kingdom or the European Union, but rather a separate possession of the Crown. It has its own language -- called Jerrais, although it's not commonly used -- and its own legal system, even its own passports.

Romans and Vikings all passed through Jersey centuries ago; in the 10th century it was annexed by the Duke of Normandy (the Duke's descendant was William the Conqueror). Fast-forward to the 17th century -- by then Jerseymen (and Jerseywomen) had become expert fishermen and shipbuilders -- and the occurrence of a propitious historical event, at least as far as Americans are concerned.

In 1646, during the English Civil War, Charles II -- at the time the Prince of Wales -- was forced into exile and sought refuge at Jersey's Elizabeth Castle. Here he had tea and found sympathy from the de Carteret family, loyalists to Charles, who controlled the island in his name. When he finally returned to England in 1660 and was crowned king, it was payback time: He presented the loyal Carteret clan, specifically George de Carteret, Jersey's governor, a whole bunch of acreage in the Colonies. Carteret -- who later gained fame by having a New Jersey Turnpike toll station named after him -- never actually lived in what he christened New Jersey.

A haven for tourists and taxes

Although kings, exiled or not, are hard to find sunning themselves on Jersey's lovely beaches these days, tourism is enormous here, and is, in fact, the second-largest industry, after finance. Money is the hot topic at cocktail parties because Jersey, with its autonomous political status, is a tax haven, and it gives investors and businesses fat incentives for moving in.

As one of the Channel Islands -- the other well-known island is neighboring Guernsey -- Jersey benefits from the balmy wash of the Gulf Stream. It is warmer than it deserves to be at this latitude and is officially the sunniest location in the British Isles.

In season, bathers of all stripes invade the place, and Jersey is prepared, with more than two dozen beaches, some spectacular golf courses, accommodations with 12,000 beds, and restaurants. The pubs are irrevocably British, the local seafood invariably fresh, and the range of accommodations broad, from simple B&Bs to the luxurious but cozy Longueville Manor, a converted 800-year-old Norman manor that would match up neatly against the better hotels on the Continent.

As for Americans, Jersey just isn't on their travel-plan radar, despite the trans-Atlantic connection. "We had only 1,100 Americans visit last year," said Jennifer Ellenger, who works for the island's tourism office. Jersey would be a most likely destination for American tourists traveling from London to Paris, or vice versa, but it takes some planning. Jersey, though, is worth an off-the-beaten-tracks detour.

Contrasting coasts

One of the prime attractions is the schizophrenic, 50-mile-long coastline: commercial and trendy in some stretches, moonlike desolate and tranquil in others, and occasionally spectacular.

My garrulous guide-for-a-day, Hugh Gill, and I circled Jersey by car -- walking trails are at hand for the hardy, even in the cooler months -- with occasional incursions inland to check out a prehistoric tomb, down a cup of strong cider, stare at a handsome Jersey cow (in a field) or at a orangutan in the elaborate Durrell Wildlife zoo and parkland, a unique sanctuary and breeding center founded by author and conservationist Gerald Durrell.

Hitler's mark

Another diversion from the geography -- a fairly grim diversion -- is a visit to the Jersey War Tunnels, called Ho8. Hohlgangsanlage 8 -- the Underground Hospital -- is an extensive tunnel complex built as part of Hitler's obsessive plan for an "Atlantic Wall," overseen by the Nazi occupiers of Jersey, who brought in about 5,000 forced laborers -- Russians, Poles, Frenchmen, Spaniards -- from the Continent as well as hiring locals. It is a damp, dank window into the darker side of Jersey's recent history.

The subterranean world open to the public today is essentially a dimly lit, atmospheric labyrinth that extends about one kilometer. It took more than three years to build, as part of the Germans' strategic designs on the British Isles. While it was planned as a bomb-proof barracks for troops, it was instead converted to a casualty receiving station not long before the D-Day allied invasion.

In rooms off the tunnels, the history of the occupation is traced in multimedia fashion, with films and audio, from Festung Jersey to the siege itself to resistance by the islanders. The exhibit, first opened in 1946, was renovated to the tune of about $4 million in 2001. There's a modern snack bar and a gift shop, and plenty of food for thought.

The Jersey shore

Above ground once again, we trekked back to the coast, mindful that Jersey is very much a small place, and very much an island.

Because of its position in the Bay of St. Malo, Jersey was, and continues to be, shaped by the tides, which can have a daily range of almost 40 feet.

The "high" coast is the north side, carved and cut into coves, caves and rocky bays by the Channel, ideal for setting out to sea in a kayak or casting a rod. (Thanks to the tidal range and the Gulf Stream, marine life is abundant around Jersey's shore.)

On the south -- the calmer, beachier side of Jersey -- St. Helier on St. Aubin's Bay is sort of action central, Jersey's capital and its busiest port. It's very much like an English village grown into a commercial town. And, Jersey being at least partly European and "veddy British," there are castles here.

The gem is Mont Orgueil Castle, above the horseshoe-shaped Gorey Harbor on the east coast. The structure is in an ideal defensive position, facing Normandy, protected by the sea and cliffs on three sides. It remained a powerful deterrent to invaders until early in the last century, when it was given to the Jersey people as a national monument.

In fact, one of Jersey's most magnificent views is on the approach to the castle from the A3 road: The stately 13th-century castle sits atop a hill, framed below by the boats in the foreground and a gaily colored row of shops stretching along the harbor front.

But our favorite distraction was a stop in the southwest corner of the island, in the Parish of St. Brelade: the Corbière Lighthouse, painted in bright, white livery, where a mini-gale is almost always washing over it. The structure is accessible via a concrete causeway, but be warned that, when the tide turns, the causeway washes out, and quickly. How romantic. As is the name itself: Corbiere means the place where crows -- les corbeaux -- congregate.

Getting there:

There are no direct flights from the U.S. to Jersey. The simplest route is to fly to Heathrow or Gatwick airports in London, then transfer to a flight to Jersey. Other routes, including car ferries operated by Condor, are covered from both the south coast of England and the Normandy coast of France, for travelers who want to make Jersey a destination between France and England. Far more information on all aspects of travel to Jersey, including air carriers and tour operators, visit www.jersey.com.

Getting around:

Jersey is small, so, with a car, one can get a good sense of the landscape in only a few hours. There are full-day bus tours that visit several local attractions, farms and gardens, as well as taxis and public buses. Blue Badge (island-certified) guides have intimate knowledge of Jersey and its history and can be booked ahead. Hugh Gill, our effervescent guide, speaks French and German as well as English. See jersey.com .

Where to stay:

Tons of choices exist, from a simple B&B to a luxurious chateau. For a complete list of accommodations, graded by star, as well as camping information, go to www.jerseyhols.com.

Where to eat:

Brasseries, cafes, pubs and upscale eateries are plentiful in this tourist-heavy destination. Lots of places that begin with "la" and "le." For a splurge, the Longueville Manor has an exceptional menu, terrific wine list, and all the fruits and vegetables are home grown. It has the ambience of a country manor house. Expect to spend $60 and up per person for dinner, plus wine.

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