In Europe, not the Soprano's Jersey

By Stephen Williams, Newsday
12:19 PM PDT, July 12, 2007

Don't call it Joisey. And never, ever, add the adjective "new."

Jersey is an island that plumps up in the English Channel between France and England. It is, of course, surrounded by water, which New Jersey isn't; cow's milk and potatoes are big exports from Jersey, which isn't the case with New Jersey. And the real Jersey shore ... well, let's just say there's no Trump Taj Mahal anywhere near it.

Although it lies closer to France and Normandy (12 miles) than to the south coast of England (about 80 miles to Portsmouth, as the crow flies), Jersey has a decidedly British feel -- the croissants are doughy rather than flaky, the shops more High Street than Boulevard Hausmann, and everybody drives on the left, or is supposed to.

Politically and legislatively, Jersey is rather unique in Europe. With its 90,000 permanent residents, it is a self-governing "bailiwick," not part of the United Kingdom or the European Union, but rather a separate possession of the Crown. It has its own language -- called Jerrais, although it's not commonly used -- and its own legal system, even its own passports.

Romans and Vikings all passed through Jersey centuries ago; in the 10th century it was annexed by the Duke of Normandy (the Duke's descendant was William the Conqueror). Fast-forward to the 17th century -- by then Jerseymen (and Jerseywomen) had become expert fishermen and shipbuilders -- and the occurrence of a propitious historical event, at least as far as Americans are concerned.

In 1646, during the English Civil War, Charles II -- at the time the Prince of Wales -- was forced into exile and sought refuge at Jersey's Elizabeth Castle. Here he had tea and found sympathy from the de Carteret family, loyalists to Charles, who controlled the island in his name. When he finally returned to England in 1660 and was crowned king, it was payback time: He presented the loyal Carteret clan, specifically George de Carteret, Jersey's governor, a whole bunch of acreage in the Colonies. Carteret -- who later gained fame by having a New Jersey Turnpike toll station named after him -- never actually lived in what he christened New Jersey.

A haven for tourists and taxes

Although kings, exiled or not, are hard to find sunning themselves on Jersey's lovely beaches these days, tourism is enormous here, and is, in fact, the second-largest industry, after finance. Money is the hot topic at cocktail parties because Jersey, with its autonomous political status, is a tax haven, and it gives investors and businesses fat incentives for moving in.

As one of the Channel Islands -- the other well-known island is neighboring Guernsey -- Jersey benefits from the balmy wash of the Gulf Stream. It is warmer than it deserves to be at this latitude and is officially the sunniest location in the British Isles.

In season, bathers of all stripes invade the place, and Jersey is prepared, with more than two dozen beaches, some spectacular golf courses, accommodations with 12,000 beds, and restaurants. The pubs are irrevocably British, the local seafood invariably fresh, and the range of accommodations broad, from simple B&Bs to the luxurious but cozy Longueville Manor, a converted 800-year-old Norman manor that would match up neatly against the better hotels on the Continent.

As for Americans, Jersey just isn't on their travel-plan radar, despite the trans-Atlantic connection. "We had only 1,100 Americans visit last year," said Jennifer Ellenger, who works for the island's tourism office. Jersey would be a most likely destination for American tourists traveling from London to Paris, or vice versa, but it takes some planning. Jersey, though, is worth an off-the-beaten-tracks detour.

Contrasting coasts

One of the prime attractions is the schizophrenic, 50-mile-long coastline: commercial and trendy in some stretches, moonlike desolate and tranquil in others, and occasionally spectacular.

My garrulous guide-for-a-day, Hugh Gill, and I circled Jersey by car -- walking trails are at hand for the hardy, even in the cooler months -- with occasional incursions inland to check out a prehistoric tomb, down a cup of strong cider, stare at a handsome Jersey cow (in a field) or at a orangutan in the elaborate Durrell Wildlife zoo and parkland, a unique sanctuary and breeding center founded by author and conservationist Gerald Durrell.

Hitler's mark

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