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These aren't the five best restaurants in California, but they did serve up the five best meals on my drive, from the Mexican to the Oregonian border. From south to north:

* Mama D's Italian Kitchen, 1031 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach; (310) 379-6262. Part of a three-site beach-communities chain. Kid-friendly setting, good, hearty food and just about the only TV-free dining room within walking distance of the Hermosa Beach Pier. Dinner entrees $8.50 to $19.99.

* The Beachcomber, Malibu Pier, 23000 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu; (310) 456-9800, www.thebeachcombercafe.com. Top-flight tuna sandwich (and an over-the-top vertical presentation) in a spotless reconstruction of a classic '40s coffee-shop setting. Breakfast, lunch dinner. Dinner entrees $19.95 to $37.95.

* Parkside Cafe, 43 Arenal Ave., Stinson Beach; (415) 868-1272, www.parksidecafe.com. A cozy fireplace and a great $8.95 burger made with Niman Ranch beef, whole-grain mustard aioli, braised onions, roasted tomatoes. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Dinner entrees $11.95 to $18.95.

* Cafe Beaujolais, 961 Ukiah St., Mendocino; (707) 937-5614, www.cafebeaujolais.com. It's been the popular favorite for years, and if my mushroom soup and poached pear salad are fair indication, it's still working hard to stay that way. Dinner entrees $24 to $31. Dinner nightly, lunch Wednesday through Sunday.

* Abruzzi, 791 8th St., Arcata; (707) 826-2345, www.abruzziarcata.com. Upscale (but not too fancy) Italian, a block off this college town's bohemian plaza. I had the pizza margherita. Dinner entrees $12 to $28. Dinner only.

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