MORE FOR YOUR MONEY | FRANCE
The euro's up, the dollar's down, what's a tourist to do? Do this: Go, enjoy the City of Light and follow these tips.
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Paris
A euro was worth $1.25 when I moved to Paris in 2004. Now it's more like $1.60. So, am I happy I don't live here anymore? Not at all, but I'm much more careful with my money when I pass through.
When I returned for a visit at the end of last year, I remembered 10 ways to stretch a euro in the City of Light.
FOR THE RECORD:
Paris: An article in the Travel section on April 27 about money-saving approaches to visiting the City of Light said that arriving passengers at Charles de Gaulle International Airport must take a shuttle bus to reach the RER train into central Paris. A new, automated, electric light-rail line began operating in April 2007 at the Paris airport. The free system operates 24/7 and links all three terminals, the RER and TGV train stations and long-term parking lots. —
1. CONSIDER A FLAT
For stays of a week or more, rent an apartment. Given the expensive hotel rates and lodging tax, an apartment rental can be cost effective. Lots of established agencies specialize in places suitable for vacationers, including www.rothray.com, www.rentalfrance.com and www.parisaddress.com.
In December, I stayed in a small but well-equipped one-bedroom apartment near the Pompidou Centre in the 4th arrondisement; its rate is less than $200 a night year-round.
In an apartment, you'll usually get more space than in a hotel room, and you can avoid $20 breakfasts by having them at home -- in bed, if you wish.
2. A LESS-STEEP SLEEP
If you don't want an apartment, find a good, moderately priced hotel and book ahead. Here are a few: Hôtel Langlois, 63 Rue St.-Lazare, 011-33-1-48-74-78-24, www.hotel-langlois.com, on the Right Bank near Gare St.-Lazare, with doubles from $210; Hôtel les Degrés de Notre Dame, 10 Rue des Grands Degrés, 011-33-1-55-42-88-88, www.lesdegreshotel.com, in the Latin Quarter, doubles from $173 including breakfast; and Hôtel du Dragon, 36 Rue du Dragon, 011-33-1-45-48-51-05, www.hoteldudragon.com, in St. Germain, doubles $173.
3. FROM THE AIRPORT
A cab from Charles de Gaulle Airport to central Paris can cost as much as $75. The RER B Line train goes from De Gaulle airport to six subway stations in Paris for about $12 one way, but it's not easy to take your luggage on the Métro.
I prefer the Roissybus, which leaves from Terminals 1, 2 and 3. It costs about $13 and drops you off at L'Opéra Garnier, near the American Express office at 11 Rue Scribe. A cab from there to most places in the heart of the city shouldn't cost more than $10.
Of course, getting to and from Orly Airport is easier and cheaper (about $30 to $40) because it's slightly closer to the city than De Gaulle. Orly handles mostly short-haul flights and is worth remembering if you plan to travel within the European Union.
4. PEDAL POWER
Everyone knows how efficient and cost effective it is to use the Métro, but since last year, Paris has added a new mass transit system that's also worth trying out: Vélib', a bicycle rental program aimed chiefly at getting cars, congestion and pollution out of the city.
Vélib' allows people to pick up a bicycle at one location and return it to another. There are hundreds of Vélib' stations around the city (with more than 20,000 bikes), not to mention about 230 miles of bike lanes.
Riders must buy a one-day access card (about $1.50) or a seven-day pass (about $7.50) from meters in the Vélib' parking stations.
The rental is free for the first half-hour; the second half-hour costs $3; every half-hour after that costs $6. Rates are tabulated by the meters when you return the bike. For more information (in French), go to www.velib.paris.fr.
5. SEEING THE SIGHTS
The concentration of museums in Paris is astonishing, and you may find yourself visiting at least one a day, which can run into serious money. The Musée du Quai Branly costs about $13 a person and Versailles about $20. But 60 museums, including Branly and Versailles, are open to those who buy the official Paris Museum Pass, sold at tourist information bureaus, museums, monuments and online at www.parismuseumpass.com. The price for unlimited entry to participating sites is $45 for two days; $65 for four days; and $90 for six days .
Entrance is free at a handful of museums, including the Musée Carnavalet in the Marais and the Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris on Avenue Winston Churchill.
6. A HOT DINNER TICKET
Having lunch, not dinner, at high-priced restaurants such as Taillevent and L'Ambrosie is a well-known tactic for saving money. But you won't do better at midday at Le Comptoir, a tiny, intensely popular bistro on the Left Bank overseen by chef Yves Camdeborde. That's because on weeknights Camdeborde prepares a set five-course menu with no choices for $68, probably less than you would spend for lunch at the city's ritziest restaurants. Mind you, weeknights at Le Comptoir are a hot ticket, so you must book far in advance. Le Comptoir, 011-33-1-43-29-12-05, 9 Carrefour de l'Odéon in the 6th arrondissement.
7. BLOGGERS HAVEN
If your hotel doesn't offer free Internet access, don't pay to hook up there. The rates are better at Milk, a chain of five Internet halls in prime tourist neighborhoods such as the Panthéon, St. Michel and Les Halles. Milk is not a cafe; it's for serious Internet use, open 24/7. A five-hour ticket (usable on repeat visits) costs about $18; rates are lower at night. Info: www.milklub.com.
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