SOUTH AMERICA | CHILE
Chilean postcard: Aiming for just this side of Antarctica
The coveted prize is for a town to be el fin del mundo — the end of the world, the most southern civilization on Earth. The competition begins at some invisible line in Patagonia, which Argentina and Chile share. From there, it is a scramble to be the southernmost pizzeria in the world, the last gas station in the Americas or the final sports bar before Antarctica. Numerous towns jostle for the crown, a surefire tourist attraction, but only one can be telling the truth.
*
Plenty of pretenders
Punta Arenas, Chile, isn't quite it, even though it is the last city on the South American mainland. Ushuaia, on the Argentine side of South America's largest island, Tierra del Fuego, isn't it either, although it is the southernmost city of size. Ushuaia is so self-assured of its position as the world's last city that the post office will stamp your passport with an official "fin del mundo" mark. Nestled between snowcapped peaks and dark waters teeming with sea lions, Ushuaia is overrun with shops, cafes, bars and nearly as many tourist agencies as tourists.
*
And the winner is
Somewhere in the shadow of Ushuaia's marketing juggernaut, the quaint Chilean town of Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino has been overlooked. Puerto Williams sits below the 54th parallel and is the last civilization before you hit Antarctic research stations. The town is composed of wind-swept gray military barracks, prefabricated aluminum-sided houses and makeshift corrugated-iron dwellings, with horses grazing along mud-puddled streets. Beyond 1,800 or so locals, it is populated with a seasonal flow of king-crab fishermen, hard-core yachters, and weathered Antarctic explorers.
*
Why bring a camera?
On Isla Navarino, the first few hours of the trail up to Cerro Bandera (Flag Hill) make for a moderate day hike and take in a sublime panoramic view of the serrated Dientes and the imposing peaks of Tierra del Fuego, across the Beagle Channel. It is also possible to do this jaunt in winter, when the hills and mountains are swathed in a fine crystalline snow. For those who are not satisfied with the end of the human world and need to venture on to the very last point in the Americas, the fabled Cape Horn isn't far.
*
Where to stay
The Hotel Lakutaia is a new full-service hotel that arranges your transfer from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams and organizes day hikes to the Dientes de Navarino and trips to Cape Horn. It has 24 comfortable double rooms with private baths and central heating. The hotel also offers international or regional cuisine and a nice library. Double rooms from $200; 011-56-61-621733, http://www.lakutaia.cl . The Residencial Pusaki, a quirky bed and breakfast-style home, is a good way to get a feeling for Puerto Williams. The pleasant owner also serves dinner (don't miss her spicy shellfish and king-crab concoction, Caldillo Pusaki). Room with shared bath, $12; 011-56-61-621116.
*
Where to eat
Club de Yates Micalvi is a bar-restaurant housed in a 1925 cargo boat in the Puerto Williams harbor. Grizzled sailors and Antarctic explorers toss back stiff drinks and gorge on king-crab sandwiches while they try to outdo one another's tales of adventure; 011-56-61-621020.
*
Tour tips
Cruceros Australis (www.australis.com) runs four- to seven-day luxury cruises from Punta Arenas through the Beagle Channel, Puerto Williams, Ushuaia and back. Departures from Ushuaia stop at Cape Horn. During the late December through February high season, cabins begin at $1,078 per person for the four-day cruise and include meals. Turismo SIM (www.simltd.com) organizes sailing trips from Puerto Williams to Cape Horn, when the weather permits, and can put together various other excursions. Aerovías DAP (www.dap.cl) flies between Punta Arenas and Puerto Williams ($65) daily except Sunday (011-56-61-223-340). DAP flights to Antarctica make a brief stopover at Cape Horn. Transbordadora Austral Broom (www.tabsa.cl) has ferries that depart once a week in either direction from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams through the spectacular Beagle Channel. The trip features fiords, glaciers, snow-covered peaks and rivers. Berths go for $170, including meals.
*
Getting there
From LAX, Lan Airlines offers connecting service (change of plane) to Ushuaia, a nearby city of about 50,000. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $970.
 The French built this place before the Americans took it over. There are a couple of big lakes next door. |
 A list of getaway destinations to help you tap the West's cache of sights. |
Foreign affairs: Where Gov. Mark Sanford should have been sleeping
Memo to: All American elected officials
From: Christopher Reynolds, Los Angeles Times travel...
Read more »
Users' Favorites
Taking restless Southern California on vacation
Los Angeles Times e-mail newsletter, delivered every Thursday
wherever it appears.