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Anyone who regularly visits Tahiti's Faa'a International Airport knows the travel trends: Every time a flight to nearby Bora-Bora comes up on the departure screen, hordes of well-heeled foreigners line up like lemmings at the check-in counter.

Although the name "Tahiti" conjures up images of a white-sand paradise, white sand is rare in Tahiti, so most visitors hustle to the airport or ferry dock for Bora-Bora, Moorea or Huahine. This obsession with white sand has enabled Tahiti Iti, with one of French Polynesia's most sumptuous landscapes, to rest relatively unvisited even though it is only an hour's drive from Papeete, the country's capital.

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Farm country

The area's largest town is Taravao. From there, a gentle slope rises to form the Taravao Plateau, Tahiti's agricultural center. A short drive up the plateau through French countryside-like fields lined with tropical fruit trees brings you to a vista where you can enjoy stunning views over the larger part of Tahiti and the lagoon on both sides. There is a horse ranch up here (Le Ranch du Plateau; 011-689-73-84-43) that offers trail rides.

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The unbeaten path

Two 11-mile roads spread along the coasts from Taravao: one to the southeast, which ends at the town of Tautira, and one farther south that ends at the village of Teahupoo. The Teahupoo side has a barrier reef, one small white-sand beach, a handful of family pensions (the French answer to the bed and breakfast), restaurants and even a dive center (Iti Diving International; 011-689-57-77-93; http://www.itidiving.pf ), but the Tautira coast has little development and few tourists.

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Next stop: paradise

Take a drive to the end of the Tautira road to visit this compact, traditional village whose highlights include an empty sweep of black-sand beach and a massive stone church dedicated to the first Spanish Catholic missionaries.

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Surf's up

Teahupoo is no secret to surfers, who discovered some of the world's most dauntingly huge but perfectly formed waves right at the road's end. Billabong sponsors the surf contest here each April; this brings visitors from around the globe as well as astounding numbers of day-trippers from Papeete.

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Woodstock on the road

During the surf contest, the normally empty, circular bay of black sand where Tahiti's paved road ends becomes a hive of eating shacks, portable mini-stadiums and parking quandaries. Each contest is bigger than the last, and family pensions have multiplied like coat hangers in a closet; thanks to the surf, the best budget accommodations on the island of Tahiti are now found around Teahupoo.

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Caves and waterfalls

A journey to Tahiti Iti would not be complete without visiting the Fenua Aihere, the wild coastline accessible only by boat or on foot that connects the towns of Teahupoo and Tautira. All family pensions offer day picnics to this area of legendary caves, waterfalls that plunge directly into the sea and luxuriant passion-fruit vines engulfing archeological remains. The most well-known picnic spot is Vaipoiri Cave; swim to the back of the cave for a refreshing adventure.

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Where to stay

For the ultimate French Polynesian escape in Tahiti Iti's Fenua Aihere, stay at Te Pari Village, whose simple, Japanese-style bungalows grace an Eden-like garden of tropical fruits. Room with full board, $155 per person; 011-689-42-59-12. On the road to Teahupoo, Pension Chayan offers an authentic Tahitian welcome with crisp, clean cement bungalows in a magnificent garden with its own natural waterfall. Doubles from $140; 011-689-57-46-00, http://www.pensionchayantahiti.pf . For a more French experience, head to Vanira Lodge perched up on a hill with sweeping views over the Teahupoo lagoon; the bungalows here use stone and natural materials to create the most original sleeping option in French Polynesia. Bungalows for up to five people, $147; 011-689-72-69-62, http://www.vaniralodge.com .

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Where to eat

Grab a burger or some grilled fresh fish at La Plage de Maui, which has several tottering plastic tables overlooking Tahiti Iti's only public stretch of white sand. Entrees from $9. On Friday and Saturday nights, put on your dancing shoes for a Tahitian-style meal and some "Tahitian foxtrot" dancing to a live local band at Le Manukau in Taravao. Entrees from $12; 011-689-57-77-02. Taravao's finest dining experience is at Restaurant Taumatai in a verdant garden setting. Entrees from $12; 011-689-57-13-59.

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Getting there

From LAX, Air Tahiti Nui and Air France all fly nonstop to Faa'a International Airport near Papeete, the bustling capital of Tahiti. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,107. Transport to your lodging can usually be reserved in advance through your hotel. Connecting flights to other islands are easy to arrange.