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THE BEST WAY

From LAX, connecting service (change of plane) is available on Delta, Iberia, Continental, KLM, Air France, Lufthansa and US Airways. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $935.

TELEPHONES

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 34 (country code for Spain) and the local number.

WHERE TO EAT

Mannix, 30 Calle Felipe II, Campaspero; 983-69-80-18. It's all about lamb. Lamb dinner for two about $50.

Hotel Fuente de la Aceña Calle de Molino, Quintanilla de Onésimo, 983-68-11-82, www.fuenteacena.com. A contemporary twist on traditional dishes. Appetizers $12 to $17, main dishes $17 to $23.

Mesón de la Villa, 3 Plaza Mayor, Aranda de Duero; 947-50-10-25. Traditional cuisine including morcilla, or black pudding. Appetizers $7 to $24; main dishes $16 to $24.

2,39, 39 Calle Antonio Machado, Tudela de Duero; 983-52-07-34. Sinful patatas pastor ($10), crispy potato slices baked with chips of Spanish ham and cheese, remained our unrivaled favorite dish throughout our time in Ribera del Duero. Main courses $16 to $37.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS

Museo Provincial del Vino de Valladolid, Castillo de Peñafiel; 983-88-11-99, www.museodelvinodevalladolid.es. A first stop for anyone visiting the region. Open Tuesdays to Sundays; $8 for museum and castle.

Excolegiata de Santa Ana, Peñaranda de Duero, 947-55-20-63. Ornate 15th century ducal church.

Palacio de los Zuñiga Avellaneda, Peñaranda de Duero; 947-55-20-63. Well-preserved 16th century ducal palace.

TO LEARN MORE

Peñafiel: Oficina de Turismo, 2 Plaza del Coso; 983-88-15-26, www.turismopenafiel.com.

Peñaranda de Duero: Oficina de Turismo, 7 Calle Trinquete; 947-55-20-63 www.penarandadeduero.com.

Tourist Office of Spain, (323) 658-7188, www.spain.info.