Portsmouth, N.H.: Blending the old and the new
Portsmouth, N.H.
Oh Portsmouth, my how you've grown.
Tucked along
But make no mistake -- what's happening here has not been a full-fledged transformation. Rather, the city has carefully retained its heritage while growing into the 21st century.
Trendy clothing boutiques take up residence in historic buildings. Expensive restaurants share the sidewalk with ultra-casual seafood shacks and ice cream stands. While one 17th-century oceanfront hotel was restored in 2003 after years of neglect, a modern Hilton also was recently built downtown. Free wireless Internet access is available throughout much of the city.
This congenial, old-meets-new spirit seems contagious.
Year-round residents play nice with tourists hogging the sidewalks and perusing restaurant menus posted in the windows. Locals lingering around Market Square with their coffee and Sunday Boston Globe barely seem bothered by teenagers loudly jumping curbs with their skateboards.
Named this year as the only New England city among the National Trust for Historic Preservation's "Dozen Distinctive Destinations" for its "captivating blend of coastal beauty, historic buildings and lively downtown," Portsmouth has been lauded, too, for being walkable. There's also charter-boat fishing and sightseeing cruises, family-friendly museums and historic home tours for the taking.
Not bad for a city of just 21,000 residents. Spend a weekend in Portsmouth, and you might -- if just for a moment -- consider becoming one of them.
Where to eat:
The sheer number of restaurants in Portsmouth is impressive (and intimidating). There are more than 30 within a few blocks -- so ask around for recommendations on your visit. Here are some that ranked high on ours:
• The Golden Egg, 967 Sagamore Ave., 603-436-0519. Popular with the locals for unusual omelets, hearty pancakes and homemade pies.
• Bella Luna, 10 Market St., 603-436-9800. This tiny Italian bistro serves specialties such as lobster pan roast, a bisque-like soup with generous chunks of fresh meat made from a secret recipe. Sit upstairs for a view overlooking Market Square.
• Popovers on the Square, 8 Congress St., 603-431-1119, popoversonthesquare.com. Casual cafe that's just right for after-dinner drinks and dessert, including giant warm popovers with maple butter.
• Annabelle's Natural Ice Cream, 49 Ceres St., 603-436-3400, annabellesicecream.com. Homemade ice cream in flavors such as Cashew Caramel Cluste" and Minty Mint Cookie. Frozen yogurt, too.
Where to shop:
Funky boutiques, upscale kitchen and home-decor stores stand side-by-side with artisan shops and vintage clothing outposts. Of note:
• Second Time Around, 29 Congress St., 603-433-0200, secondtimearound.net.
The well-priced inventory of designer clothing, shoes, jewelry and bags changes daily.
• Stonewall Kitchen, 10 Pleasant St., 603-422-7303, stonewallkitchen.com. Gourmet pancake mixes, syrups, dressings and other goodies.
• Anna Street Studio, 113 Market St., 603-433-2247, annastreet.com. Kate Spade and Vera Bradley aficionados will relish designing a custom handbag with a choice of 200 fabrics and trims.
• Macro, Unleashed, 89 Market St., 603-436-8887, macropolo.com. A fun-to-browse store with quirky pet toys, rhinestone-studded cat collars and organic dog biscuits.
Where to stay:
• Hilton Garden Inn, 100 High St., 603-431-1499, hiltongardeninn.com. Rates: $124-$234. Opened last year, this hotel is located downtown within walking distance of shops, restaurants and sights.
• The Governor's House, 32 Miller Ave., 603-427-5140, governors-house.com. Rates: $155-$245. Former New Hampshire Gov. Charles Dale lived in this Georgian Colonial that's now run as a bed-and-breakfast.
• Wentworth By the Sea Hotel and Spa, 588 Wentworth Rd., New Castle, 603-422-7322, wentworth.com. Rates from $259. Built in 1874, this luxury oceanfront hotel a few miles outside Portsmouth has indoor and outdoor pools, a marina and a spa.
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