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The demise of the Soviet Union has had a curious benefit for tourists in the West: It has made getting to Antarctica much easier. Many Soviet Antarctic supply ships and spy ships that suddenly found themselves without jobs are now earning a living shuttling visitors down to the frozen south. So if you've seen "March of the Penguins" and now want to see those fabulous fowl for real, it's easier (and cheaper) than it has ever been.

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Southerners at heart

Apart from a few that stray north of the equator at the Galápagos Islands, penguins are exclusive to the Southern Hemisphere. You'll find them in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa as well as Antarctica but not in Alaska, Greenland or the Arctic. Penguin sightings are virtually guaranteed for any visitor to the Antarctic. Unfortunately, there's one penguin type you're unlikely to see: those magnificent emperors that star in "March of the Penguins."

The emperor's life

The issue isn't numbers but location. The emperor penguin population is estimated at 500,000, but most are found on the great ice sheets that surround the Antarctic continent. Any Antarctic tour will encounter lots of ice and icebergs, but most are not likely to be making landfall on the forbidding ice sheets. There are two emperor penguin colonies on dry land, but neither is on the regular Antarctic itineraries; they're simply too remote.

The king and you

Penguin fans needn't be disappointed, however; there are plenty of others to be seen, including the magnificent king penguins, which are outranked in size only by the emperor and are even more exotically attired. Emperors like the deep cold of the far south, but king penguins are found in the warmer climes farther north, particularly on South Georgia Island.

The petite gentoos

Penguins all seem to be endowed with personality. King penguins are the aristocracy — aloof, always immaculately attired. The tiny gentoos are the suburban penguin, gathering in large groups and always keen to do a little DIY home improvement by adding yet another stone to their nests.

Lovable punks

For many penguin enthusiasts, rockhoppers are favorites. They're the punks of the penguin world, with their stylish brush cuts, the bright feathers spiking up at the edge and what looks like a pair of sunglasses perched above their eyes. Their wind-up-toy jump up the faces of rocky cliffs, their nonchalance toward human intruders and the fact that they don't even bother hanging out with other penguins, seeming to prefer albatross and cormorant colonies, means the tiniest penguins have the strongest personalities.

Macaronis and Adélies

Macaroni penguins are the style kings, grown-up rockhoppers named after the 18th century London fashionistas who also pop up in that song about the Yankee Doodle Dandy who stuck a feather in his cap. The small Adélie penguin, named by French explorer Durmont d'Urville for his wife, are at home far to the south, like the emperor penguin.

On the peninsula

The Antarctic Peninsula attracts the most visitors, and with good reason. The density of wildlife, including whales, seals and penguins, is at its greatest here, and although it doesn't boast the endless expanses of ice found farther south, there's no shortage of icebergs, as well as some interesting scientific bases to visit. Perhaps equally important, there's a lot less open sea to traverse before you arrive at the ice, which often means an easier journey.

Getting there

Check the International Assn. of Antarctica Tour Operators for information on cruises and links to websites; (970) 704-1047, http://www.iaato.org . Most trips run nine to 11 days, with prices starting at about $4,500, plus airfare to and from South America. To find the trip that fits you best, research the different ships, facilities, guest lecturers and activities.

Other activities

More adventurous operators also organize hiking, mountain climbing, kayaking and even scuba diving. Ushuaia, at the southern end of Argentina, is the No. 1 jumping-off point. It has a delightful frontier feel but is also equipped with an airport and a selection of hotels and restaurants. Many cruises also visit the Falkland Islands and South Georgia. Trips farther south to the early explorers' Ross Sea bases usually start from Australia or New Zealand.

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