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THE BEST WAY

From LAX, Air France, Air Tahiti Nui and Delta offer nonstop service to Paris, and US Airways, British, Virgin, American, Continental, United, Air Canada, Lufthansa, New Zealand, Northwest and Aer Lingus offer connecting (change of planes) service. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,278.

WHERE TO STAY

London Guest Suites: We found our great apartment through www.londonguestsuites.com, (800) 664-5663, which has a large selection of properties in Paris and London. Prices start at $455 per week for a studio apartment.

RothRay Apartments, 10 Rue Nicholas Flamel 75004, Paris; 011-33-1-48-87-13-37, www.rothray.com Minimum stay is seven nights. Prices start at $1,125 a week.

WHERE TO EAT

Cafe Very, Tuileries Gardens. Good spot for lunch after a morning at the Musée de l'Orangerie and the Ferris wheel at Place de la Concorde. Sandwiches $15, entrees $15 to $24.

Le Loir dans la Théière (the Dormouse in the Teapot), 3 Rue des Rosiers in the Marais; 011-33-1-42-72- 90-61, provides a great, hearty brunch for $13 to $15. But it is a fashionable place to relax and talk, so it gets crowded early.

Quick, all around the city. If your kids get a hankering for fast food, this is the French equivalent of McDonald's, complete with play structures and toy giveaways with kids' meals.

WHAT TO DO

Ice skating at the Hôtel de Ville: Across the Seine from Notre Dame. Skate rental is $7.35, the skating is free.

Climb the towers of Notre Dame: Entrance is on the northern side of the church; children under 12 are free. But get there early; it's popular,

TO LEARN MORE

French Government Tourist Office, (310) 271-6665 or (514) 288-1904, www.franceguide.com.