GREAT BRITAIN

Planning your trip to Edinburgh, Scotland

By Susan Spano
11:18 AM PST, March 03, 2009

THE BEST WAY TO EDINBURGH

From LAX, connecting service (change of planes) is offered on Lufthansa, British or KLM or on United, Virgin Atlantic or Air New Zealand connecting to British Midland. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $425.

TELEPHONES

To call the numbers listed below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 44 (country code for Britain) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY

Arden Country House, Belsyde, West Lothian, 1506-670172, www.ardenƒscountryhouse.com, is a meticulously maintained three-room bed-and-breakfast inn a few miles southwest of Linlithgow; doubles start at $128, including breakfast.

Borthwick Castle, North Middleton, Midlothian, 1875-820514, www.borthwickcastle.com, is a twin-towered castle keep about 15 miles south of Edinburgh from which Queen Mary escaped by climbing out a window dressed as a page when surrounded by rebel nobles on June 11, 1567. There are 10 rooms, including the Mary Queen of Scots chamber, with a red canopy bed; rates for doubles start about $170, including breakfast.

Champany, Linlithgow, West Lothian, 1506-834532, www.champany.com, is a country inn with two distinguished restaurants and 20 comfortable rooms; doubles $192, including breakfast.

Traquair House, Interleithen, Peeblesshire, 1896-830323, www.traquair.co.uk, about 30 miles south of Edinburgh, is a beautiful, historic country house that was visited by Queen Mary and is still occupied by a branch of the Stuart clan. Bed-and-breakfast accommodations are available in three elegant rooms for $256, including breakfast.

The Witchery by the Castle, Castlehill, the Royal Mile, Edinburgh, 131-2255613, www.thewitchery.com, has seven sumptuous suites in a collection of historic buildings --including one thought to have been Lord Bothwell's townhouse -- at the threshold of Edinburgh Castle; rates start around $420.

WHERE TO EAT

Beecraigs Restaurant, Beecraigs Country Park, West Lothian, 1506-670099, in farming country a few miles south of Linlithgow, has terrific views over the Bathgate Hills and hearty steak and chicken entrees, served with salad and potatoes for about $20 per person, not including drinks.

Borthwick Castle (as above) serves dinner in the candle-lighted Great Hall; $50 for the three-course prix-fixe meal, not including wine.

Champany (above) and the adjacent Chop and Ale House, set in a cluster of 16th century buildings just outside Linlithgow, are known for Aberdeen Angus beef and their wine cellar; $56 to $71for two courses at Champany and $36 at the less formal Chop and Ale House.

Marynka, 57 High St., Linlithgow, West Lothian, 1506-840123, is a small, stylish spot in the town's historic center that serves contemporary Scottish fare; about $36 for two courses.

1745 Cottage Restaurant at Traquair House (above) is a delightful place for lunch or tea, served in a walled garden; about $14 per person.

Simply Scottish, 6-8 High St., Jedburgh, 1835-864696; is a good spot for homemade Scottish breakfasts and lunches; about $10.

The Outsider, George IV Bridge, Edinburgh, 131-2263131, is a bright, contemporary eatery with good views of Edinburgh Castle and sustaining grilled fish and meat; entrees $14 to $21.

The Witchery by the Castle (above) serves gourmet Continental fare in elegant and historic surroundings. Reservations are necessary and this place is often booked months in advance. About $57 for a three-course dinner for one, not including beverages; from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m., at lunch and after 10:30 p.m.,ƒs a two-course menu is offered for $18, not including beverages.

TO LEARN MORE

Historic Scotland, www.historic-scotland.gov.uk, offers Explorer Passes to 77 sites, including Edinburgh and Stirling castles and Linlithgow Palace. Passes can be purchased at most major sites.

The Marie Stuart Society, www.marie-stuart.co.uk, is a U.K.-based group of people interested in Mary, Queen of Scots. It holds lectures and publishes a journal three times a year.

Scottish Tourist Board, www.visitscotland.com.

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