AROUND MEXICO CITY | MICHOACAN

Planning your butterfly-watching trip to Morelia, Mexico

By Jerry V. Haines, Special to The Los Angeles Times
11:53 AM PDT, November 02, 2007

THE BEST WAY

From LAX, Mexicana has nonstop service to Morelia; Continental has connecting service (change of plane). Restricted round-trip fares begin at $378.

TELEPHONES

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 52 (country code for Mexico), 443 (city for Morelia) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY The hotels listed below are near the zócalo and cathedral.

Hotel Virrey de Mendoza, 310 Avenue Madero Puente; 312-06-33, www.hotelvirrey.com. Luxury hotel at edge of zócalo radiates classiness. Doubles from $175. Seasonal butterfly packages from $415 include two nights' lodging, and city and sanctuary tours.

Hotel Catedral, 37 Zaragoza; 313-04-06, www.hotelcatedralmorelia.com. Clean and comfy. Doubles from $92.

WHERE TO EAT

Los Mirasoles, 549 Madero Puente; 317-57-75. Moderate prices for regional dishes emphasizing peppers, trout and savory sauces. Entrees around $15.

Plaza San Agustín, the home of several vendors of a variety of antojitas (snacks) cooked in front of you, most of them deep-fried. Late afternoon and into the night; expect to pay less than $5 to stuff yourself.

Comida Casera Maru, 610 Calle la Corregidora. Tiny place on the western end of the central district has wonderful soups and latke-like potato cakes. Typical lunch with homemade pineapple drink about $4.

WHAT TO DO

Butterfly peeping: Tours of the sanctuaries can be arranged through your hotel staff or the local tourist office (near the university and candy market). We paid about $50 each, including tips. Use of a horse (recommended unless you're in great physical shape) added about $10 each.

TO LEARN MORE

Michoacán Tourism Office, www.michoacan-travel.com.

Mexico Tourism Board, (800) 446-3942, www.visitmexico.com.

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