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THE BEST WAY

From LAX, United, American, Hawaiian and Continental have connecting service (change of plane) to Molokai. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $442.

WHERE TO STAY

The Lodge at Molokai Ranch, 100 Maunaloa Highway, Maunaloa; (808) 660-2824, www.molokairanch.com. It's a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, but service isn't luxe. Hawaiian-Western décor, a spectacular great room with wagon-wheel chandeliers and a stone fireplace. Doubles $427 to $518 (plus $15 resort fee for use of the pool, exercise room etc.). Sister property theBeach Village at Molokai Ranch has 40 rustic two-bedroom "tentalows" on beautiful, isolated Kaupoa Beach. Doubles $294 to $386.

Hotel Molokai, Kamehameha V Highway, Star Route, on the ocean two miles from downtown Kaunakakai; (800) 535-0085, www.hotelmolokai.com. Outdated rooms need renovation. The nicest are oceanfront. Has a pool and a popular restaurant. Doubles $130 to $205.

Wavecrest Resort condominiums, 7148 Kamehameha V Highway, 13 miles east of Kaunakakai; www.wavecrestaoao.com. Attractive low-rise property on 5 oceanfront acres with a pool, tennis courts. One- and two-bedroom units with kitchens, $90 to $165. Bookings: Friendly Isle Realty, (800) 600-4158, www.molokairesorts.com, or Molokai Vacation Rental, (800) 367-2984, www.molokai-vacation-rental.net.

Molokai Sea Ranch, a luxury gated oceanfront home with a pool and Jacuzzi. The main house has five bedrooms, 4 1/2 bathrooms; the guest house has 2 1/2 bedrooms, two bathrooms. Nightly rate for the entire complex, $2,550. Information: Hawaii Hideaways, (866) 962-5642, www.hawaiihideaways.com.

WHERE TO EAT

Hula Shores, Hotel Molokai (above). The open-air seaside restaurant has a lively bar scene and a view to Lanai. Main dishes $14 to $22.

Paddler's Inn, 10 Mohala St., Kaunakakai; (808) 553-5256, www.paddlersinnmolokai.com. This local favorite has old-Hawaii décor, including vintage photos of paddlers. The big menu has Hawaiian touches. Main dishes $11.50 to $20.

Maunaloa Room, the Lodge at Molokai Ranch (above). Upscale restaurant with main dishes from $24.40 to $39.50. I preferred the hotel's casual and less expensive Paniolo Lounge.

Kualapuu Cookhouse, 102 Farrington Ave., Kualapuu; (808) 567-9655. It's not much to look at, but the food is good. Nightly specials may include stuffed shrimp or rack of lamb. Main dishes $19 to $21.

TO LEARN MORE

Molokai Visitors Assn., 2 Kamoi St., Suite 200, Kaunakakai; (808) 553-3876, www.molokai-hawaii.com.