SOUTH AMERICA
Venezuela's wildlife and wild nightlife
Wildlife and wild nightlife
Venezuela is known for abundant oil reserves, steamy tropics and the firebrand rhetoric of its president, Hugo Chávez. But there is much more to the country than just Bush-bashing and petro-politics. It is a land of great contrasts, including vast grasslands, seemingly endless Caribbean coastline and — unbeknownst to many — the 240-mile-long northern terminus of the Andes mountain range.
Adventure awaits
Nestled among the snow-capped Andean peaks — some of which reach to more than 16,500 feet — is the town of Mérida. Americans may not be familiar with Mérida, but it is the bustling outdoor/adventure sport capital of the country — if not of the South American continent. The city is an unassuming grid of concrete streets that branch off of several leafy plazas.
A giant college town
Of the 350,000 inhabitants, one in six is a student at the University of the Andes. The young and educated population lends a cosmopolitan and progressive edge to the town. Mérida, nicknamed la Ciudad de los Caballeros (the City of Gentlemen), serves up a range of options for travelers of all economic backgrounds, all levels of fitness and all levels of daring — and does so with a smile.
Joy rides
Paragliding, white-water rafting, bungee jumping, mountain biking, climbing and high-mountain hiking begin the list of adrenaline sports on offer. For those who prefer relaxation, there are natural hot springs, idyllic mountain streams and waterfalls, gentle walks to epic vistas and the top-notch nightlife — with cheap drinks, friendly locals and no pretense.
Cable service
A highlight of any visit to Mérida is the teleférico, or cable car, which claims to be the longest and highest in the world. It runs 7.5 miles from the bottom station in town (5,204 feet) to the top of Pico Espejo (15,725 feet), covering the ascent in four stages. A round trip is $15; 011-58-274-252-1997. You can use the cable car to access a multitude of high-mountain hiking and remote villages or take it for a day of leisurely sightseeing. Rafting, hiking and paragliding are the most popular activities for visitors. Paragliding has become the iconic local sport; even Mérida's garbage trucks are adorned with paintings of paragliders. Neophytes can do a tandem descent from around 2,000 feet, and the more adventurous can enroll in a weeklong course to learn solo flight.
Club scene
El Hoyo del Queque is one of the most fun bars in the country. This drinking and music venue manages to fill up every night of the week. A trip to Mérida isn't complete without a night at El Hoyo. It's open till 1 a.m.; 011-58-274-252-4306.
Wild kingdoms
Mérida is also the gateway to spectacular regional destinations. One of the most popular trips is to Los Llanos. These grasslands are the country's main viewing point for wildlife, including the world's largest snakes, giant anacondas; the world's largest rodents, capybaras; and some of the world's best bird-watching. Another unusual trip is to witness the Catatumbo lightning phenomenon, an eerie electrical storm that gives off enough light to read a newspaper at night but isn't accompanied by a single clap of thunder.
Where to stay
Casa Sol's refurbished colonial interior is adorned with beautiful art and metalwork. The rooms are airy and fresh and have luxurious beds. Even at twice the price, they would be a good deal. The dining area is colorful and filled with light. Double room $35, suite $40; 011-58-274-252-4164 http://www.posadacasasol.com . Posada La Montaña is a gorgeous two-story colonial house with quaint, tidy rooms. The hotel's restaurant serves high-quality dishes, including steaks with inventive sauces; 011-58-274-252-5977, posadalamontanaicnet.com.ve.
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