HAWAIIAN ISLANDS | NATURE
Discover the native flora of Kauai, Hawaii's garden island
On a recent visit to Allerton Garden near Kauai's sun-drenched south coast, our guide pointed to a blooming orchid growing on a monkeypod tree. Everyone photographed the exquisite flower except me.
On a recent visit to Allerton Garden near Kauai's sun-drenched south coast, our guide pointed to a blooming orchid growing on a monkeypod tree. Everyone photographed the exquisite flower except me. I grew up in Hawaii. Orchids grew wild in our backyard. But as we ambled past all the eye-popping foliage, I couldn't help but unleash my own camera too. All of the Hawaiian Islands boast spectacular tropical vegetation, but Kauai, the "Garden Island," is the greenest and most lush of all.
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Flower power imports
Ancient Hawaiians saw a whole different landscape from the brilliantly colorful vista seen today. Chances are the showy tropical flora you associate with Hawaii is not native. Anthurium? An alien species. Bird of paradise? Alien. Protea, bromeliad, orchid? All alien.
Take a tour
Learn to recognize the subtler native species by touring some of Kauai's varied gardens. Three of the best are managed by the National Tropical Botanical Garden, a nonprofit organization working to propagate tropical and endangered plants and fight extinction; (808) 742-2623, http://www.ntbg.org . In Lawai Valley on the south shore, the nonprofit's gardens include the 80-acre Allerton and the 250-acre McBryde.
A showcase
The McBryde Garden often plays second fiddle to the adjacent, showier Allerton, but for $20 (as compared to the Allerton's $35) you can explore the vast grounds at your own pace. Less manicured and fancy, McBryde showcases palms, flowering and spice trees, orchids and rare native species. (808) 742-2623.
Heading north
On the north shore is meticulously groomed, 240-acre Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens, a set of 13 gardens. Tours $25-$75; (808) 828-0525, http://www.naainakai.org . The best bargain ($6) to see both plants and birds is at Smith's Tropical Paradise on Kauai's east side. I enjoy the solitude. It's just me and the peacocks, chickens and waterfowl, roaming in paradise; (808) 821-6895, http://www.smithskauai.com .
Where to stay
In Kilauea, surround yourself with foliage and fruit orchards at Bird Song Cottage. Double rooms from $150 (three-night minimum); (808) 828-6797, http://www.kauaibirdsongcottage.com . Near the picturesque Wainiha River, try cozy Jungle Cabana. Double rooms from $125; (888) 886-4969, http://www.junglecabana.com . Rosewood Kauai offers reasonably priced rentals. The Garden Room is studio-style with a soothing backyard pond. Double rooms from $65; hostel rooms from $45. (808) 822-5216, http://www.rosewoodkauai.com .
Where to eat
For breakfast, head to Kountry Kitchen on the east side, 1485 Kuhio Highway. Meals $8-$10; (808) 822-3511. Grab takeout plate lunches (from $7.95) at the Fish Express, in Lihue, 3343 Kuhio Highway; (808) 245-9918. Sample regional cuisine at Hukilau Lanai, 4-484 Kuhio Highway in Kapaa. Meals from $16; (808) 822-0600.
Getting there
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