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THE BEST WAY

From LAX, fly nonstop to Tokyo on All Nippon, American, Continental, JAL, Northwest, Singapore and United. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $690.

From Tokyo, take the bullet train to Osaka,, the Osaka City subway Midousuji Line to Namba station, the Nankai Koya Railway Line Express to Gokurakubashi, and transfer onto the cable car to Mt. Koya. The trip is about five hours and costs about $135.

WHERE TO STAY

Rengejoin: 700 Koyasan, Koya-cho, Ito-gun, Wakayama-ken, Japan, 648-0211; 011-81-736-56-2233. Choose among 46 Japanese rooms with a variety of views in this large, beautiful temple. From $100 per person, double occupancy, per night, including breakfast and dinner.

Shojoshin-in: 556 Koyasan, Koya-cho, Ito-gun, Wakayama-ken, Japan, 648-0291; 011-81-736-56-2006. Situated near the entrance to Okunoin cemetery, this temple offers both traditional Japanese rooms and a hanare, a suite with private bath and toilet. From $105 per person, double occupancy, per night, including breakfast and dinner.

Non-Japanese speakers may make reservations for Rengejoin and Shojoshin-in through Japanese Guest Houses, www.japaneseguesthouses.com.

For other temples, contact the Koyasan Tourist Assn. by fax, 011-81-736-56-2889, www.shukubo.jp/eng/index.html. They can even select a temple for you if you give them your budget. Remember that temples do not accept credit cards, so make sure that you have enough cash for your entire trip.

TO LEARN MORE

Japan National Tourist Organization, www.jnto.go.jp.