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GETTING THERE

From LAX, Air India has direct flights (stop, no change of plane) to New Delhi. Aeroflot, American, Asiana, China Airlines, China Eastern Airlines, Continental and Lufthansa have connecting flights (change of plane). Restricted round-trip fares begin at $912.

TELEPHONES

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 91 (country code for India) and the local number.

TOUR COMPANIES

I recommend using a tour company on the ground in India. They get better hotel rates than you can, and you can be assured of reliable guides.

Natural Mystic, based in Jodhpur with offices in Delhi; 98-290-62567, www.natmystic.com. Our trip cost $4,600 for two, which included hotels, camps, breakfasts, vehicle, guide, driver and internal flights.

WHERE TO STAY

Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur; 291-251-0101, www.tajhotels.com. One of India's finest palace hotels. Doubles $925 to $3,169.

Manvar Resort & Camp, in the desert outside Jodhpur; www.manvar.com. A good stop on the drive from Jodphur to Jaisalmer. Doubles from $250.

Mool Sagar, outside Jaisalmer; 291-257-2321, www.moolsagar.com. Upscale camp set in a Maharaja's garden. Doubles from $140.

TO LEARN MORE

Government of India Tourist Office, (213) 380-8855, www.incredibleindia.org.

Editor's note: Readers have asked how long the author's journey was. Amanda replies: "We were guided for seven days. Two nights in Jodhpur at the Umaid Bhawan, one night en route at Manvar, three nights in Jaisalmer at festival staying at Moolsagar, and one night outside Jodhpur at the horse camp."

Regarding 2008 festival dates, Amanda adds: "The Desert Festival will run February 19-21, 2008. This is a newer festival, and not as slick or touristed as the Pushkar Camel Festival (www.pushkar-fair.com; November 7-13, 2008), but has the bonus of being in gorgeous Jaisalmer.

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