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How it rates * * *

New and notable: A smart, $80-million renovation has modernized the hotel's retro appeal.

The stay: Central Beverly Hills location lets you live it up like a tourist or a celebrity.

The scene: Conventioneers mix with leisure travelers and local charity-event attendees.

Deal maker: Immerse yourself in two great sports -- swimming in the Olympic-size pool and shopping on Rodeo Drive.

Deal breaker: It's big but not boutique, even if the new décor is cool.

Stats: 9876 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 274-7777, www.beverlyhilton.com

Rooms: $295 to $1,000: penthouses are up to $5,000 per night.

Rating is based on the room, service, ambience and overall experience with price taken into account in relation to quality.

* * * * * Outstanding on every level

* * * * Excellent

* * * Very good

* * Good

* Satisfactory

No Star: Poor

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