Chattanooga, Tennessee: history and outdoor adventure

Janis Hashe,
12:00 AM PDT, September 24, 2006

In August 1970, the last passenger train pulled out of Terminal Station in Chattanooga, Tenn. The year before, newsman Walter Cronkite had proclaimed Chattanooga, with its aging factories, "the dirtiest city in the nation." Legend has it that businessmen, removing their ties at night, would find the outline in soot on their shirts. Shortly thereafter, a transformation began that led to the city consistently appearing on top quality-of-life lists. And that, in combination with a conflux of historical sites and outdoor adventure opportunities, makes a classic American vacation. Special to The Times

The street life

Start with the Bluff View Art District, a charming neighborhood along the Tennessee River that contains a gallery, an outdoor sculpture garden, several good restaurants and cafes. Gallery buffs will also love the storefronts on trendy North Chattanooga's Frazier Avenue, and folk-art lovers shouldn't miss the Chattanooga Market, noon to 5 p.m. Sundays from late April through December. Part farmers market, part craft fair, it's free, fun and full of people with dogs and kids. Another don't-miss is the African American History Museum, with its Bessie Smith Hall and exhibit about the blues icon, a Chattanooga native.

Aquariums and riverwalks

What to do with a city that had the snappy sobriquet "the Pittsburgh of the South"? For one thing, take a shabby downtown and riverfront, empty after 5 p.m., and transform it into a lively scene populated by locals and tourists alike. Cornerstones of this include the two Tennessee Aquariums, the Children's Discovery Museum, the stunning new wing of the Hunter Museum, the pedestrian Walnut Street Bridge over the Tennessee River and the complete renovation of the waterfront into a Riverwalk, with parks and a 13-mile walk/bikeway.

Festival fever

It's no exaggeration to describe Chattanooga as a "city of festivals" — there is often more than one a month. The 10-day Riverbend Festival in June brings in worldclass musicians to perform on three outdoor stages and includes the entertaining Bessie Smith Strut celebrating R&B. Other highlights include the 4Bridges Arts Festival (April), Wine Over Water (Saturday), and Winter Days and Lights (Nov. 25-Dec. 8). The Chattanooga Area Convention & Visitors Bureau lists all festivals on its website, http://www.chattanewgafun.com .

Sweat equity

Always wanted to try hang gliding? Give it a try at Lookout Mountain Flight Park and Training Center, an awesome facility. Considered the top place to learn in the country, the center is technically in Georgia but worth the 20-minute drive from Chattanooga. Also within short drives are outstanding mountain biking and hiking trails, rock climbing and the site of the 1996 Olympic Games canoe and kayak slalom competitions at Ocoee Adventure Center, beloved of whitewater enthusiasts (www.ocoeeadventurecenter.com).

Where to eat

St. John's Restaurant is steps from the entertainment district (yes, it's called Choo Choo) and widely considered the best restaurant in town. Entrees begin at $20. 1278 Market St., (423) 266-4400. The more mid-priced and casual St. John's Meeting Place is a door down. Easy Seafood Co. serves Creole cuisine seven days a week, with dinner entrees starting at $8.99. 203 Broad St., (423) 266-1121), http://www.easyseafood.com .

Where to stay

Chattanooga Choo Choo Holiday Inn offers a theme experience with 28 authentic railcar rooms. It's convenient for other downtown attractions. Rooms begin at $116. 1400 Market St.; (800) TRACK 29 (872-2529); http://www.choochoo.com . The recently renovated Sheraton Read House Hotel is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Doubles begin at $124. 827 Broad St.; (800) 691-1255, http://www.readhousehotel.com . Try the Hilton Garden Inn if you'd like to be next to the aquarium and other attractions. Doubles begin at $139. 311 Chestnut St.; (423) 308-9000, http://www.chattanooga.gardeninn.com .

Getting there

From LAX, Delta, Northwest, American, Continental and US Airways offer connecting service (change of planes) to Chattanooga. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $430. It's an easy 15-minute drive to downtown.