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FOR AGES, there seemed to be nothing in Rome between expensive luxury hotels, such as the Hassler at the top of the Spanish Steps, and the dirt-cheap pensions around unlovely Termini railway station. But in 2000, when the Eternal City prepared for an influx of pilgrims celebrating the Roman Catholic Church Jubilee, the municipal tourism agency tried to better categorize and promote lodgings offered by religious institutions and encouraged Romans to open bed-and-breakfasts.

Now there are more than 1,000, according to the tourism agency. Some of the convents and monasteries have facilities as polished as those in good hotels, and Romans have put their own spin on the B&B formula. Increasingly, they are more like small inns than private homes, with a professional staff and attractive amenities.

But most Americans prefer hotels in the four- and five-star categories, said Daniela Martellucci of the tourism agency. Those are frightfully dear, from $265 to $900 a night, on average. Even three-star places can cost as much as $250.

Thus, budget travelers would be consigned to generally uninviting, bare-bones hotels with a maximum of two stars were it not for the fact that Rome has two distinct tourist seasons, priced accordingly. Top rates are the rule from April to October, but if you can visit Rome in low season, from November to March, excluding holidays, you can get a room in a handsome upscale hotel for less than $200 a night.

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The Beehive

THE Beehive was opened in 1999 by Steve Brenner and Linda Martinez-Brenner, a young couple from L.A., and it's a happy surprise just a few blocks northeast of Termini. The neighborhood is neither the safest nor most storied part of Rome, but from there you can easily get a bus to the Vatican or a train to the airport.

The Brenners used clean, contemporary Kartell-style furnishings and original art to decorate a large ground-floor apartment, converted into a little inn with six doubles starting at about $90 and a mixed-sex bunk room that starts at $27. The results are cheerful and airy, in striking contrast to the dim, claustrophobic rooms that are the Roman budget standard.

All the rooms share baths and toilets, but there are plenty of them on the same hall as the chambers, and they come with shampoo, shower gel and soap. WiFi access is available even in the little garden out front, and the basement has a communal kitchen and cafe whose menu includes smoothies, banana bread and organic yogurt.

If you check in, make sure to get "The Beehive Recommends," a thoughtful booklet full of the Brenners' favorite restaurants, shops and sights.

The Beehive, 8 Via Marghera, 011-39-06-44-70-45-53, http://www.the-beehive.com ; doubles from $90 with shared bath.

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Hotel Campo de' Fiori

FOR many years, the Albergo del Sole and Hotel Campo de' Fiori in the medieval section of Rome were two of the city's top budget accommodations. The upkeep and service at the Albergo, where I stayed for several days on my visit in February, have flagged, I'm sorry to report, so I can't strongly recommend it.

Hotel Campo de' Fiori has closed until mid-April for renovations that will give all its 22 rooms private baths, Internet access, satellite TV, air-conditioning and double-glazed windows.

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