In Bolivia, shadowing the ghost of Che Guevara

By David Atkinson, Lonely Planet
12:00 AM PST, March 19, 2006

On a bright day in early October, pilgrims descended on a remote pueblo in rural southeastern Bolivia to mark the 38th anniversary of the death of Che Guevara. And in the dusty main square of that village, La Higuera, a huge statue of Che presided over a fiesta fit for one of the world's most charismatic revolutionary leaders.

Tourism's first steps

Devotees of the man known as Che, the ultimate Latin American hero, have long made the journey to this isolated spot, a place overlooked by the established tourist trail through Bolivia. But now, thanks to the creation of the Che Guevara Trail, a revolutionary tourism project tracing Che's final footsteps during his ill-fated 1967 Bolivia campaign, La Higuera is waking up to mass tourism.

Back in local hands

Since the opening ceremony in October 2004, attended by Bolivia's vice minister of tourism and representatives from several international aid bodies, the project has started to take on a life of its own. Now entering its second phase, it has been handed back to the Guarani community to manage under the auspices of FUNDECHE, a collective of interested groups and private enterprises working to promote the trail.

The northern trail

The route, marked by branded signposts along the rough country roads, has two main sections, north and south, covering an area of about 115 square miles. The northern route is better known, leading from Bolivia's economic powerhouse city of Santa Cruz through the colonial settlement of Vallegrande and terminating in La Higuera, the holy grail for Che pilgrims since that fateful day in 1967 when the revolutionary was executed by Bolivian troops in the local schoolhouse.

The southern leg

The other part of the trail leads from Santa Cruz by way of Lagunillas, the site of Che's original base camp, to the city of Camiri, where Jules Debray, the French intellectual and author of "Révolution dans la Révolution?" (Revolution in the Revolution?), was imprisoned in the Casino Militar for his role in helping Che. The government accused them of incitement to subversion and "violation of Bolivian sovereignty." Debray allegedly conspired with Che to build a European support base; he was later released after the intervention of the French government and went on to serve in the government of French President François Mitterrand.

Where to stay

In La Higuera, La Posada del Telegrafista is an atmospheric guesthouse-cum-campsite run by a friendly French couple with a hippie vibe, with comfy hammocks and candles to replace electricity. Rooms/camping 50 cents/15 cents per person; 011-591-3-313-7114. In Vallegrande, Hostal Juanita is a clean, family-run hotel just two blocks from the main square. Shared rooms from $5, private rooms from $15; 011-591-3-942-2231, while in Camiri, Residential Premier is a reliable budget option with air conditioning and private bathrooms; doubles from $20; 011-591-3-952-2200.

Where to eat

In Vallegrande, El Mirador is a German/Bolivian-run joint atop the local lookout point and a cut above anything else in town, with fish specials and main dishes for about $3; 011-591-3-942-2341. Cafe Galeria de Arte Santa Clara is a good spot for coffee or snacks, just off Plaza 26 de Enero at Calle Florida (no telephone). In Camiri, Club Social Camiri, on Calle Santa Cruz, does a mean set lunch for a bargain $1 to fuel Che pilgrims on their way (no telephone).

Getting there

From LAX, American, Aero, Lloyd Aero Boliviano, Mexico and Varig are among the airlines combining for connecting service to Santa Cruz, the transport hub for southern Bolivia. Restricted, round-trip fares begin at $979. From there, you need to hire a jeep and driver to complete the Che circuit, or book through a local tour operator. A recommended option is Magri Turismo, a large agency with good coverage in Bolivia; it also acts as local agent for American Express; 011-591-3-334-5663, http://www.magri-amexpress.com.bo .

For more info

Entry requirements for Bolivia are available at the U.S. State Department site, http://travel.state.gov/travel . Note that passport requirements for U.S. citizens traveling in the Western Hemisphere are changing. Meanwhile, a fine overview of Bolivia, and other nations, is available at http://www.cia.gov/cia/publications/factbook .